Thursday, March 31, 2011

Chi Lin Nunnery and Nan Lian Garden

When I hear the word nunnery my Catholic upbringing conjures up images of kind women in black and white habits - nuns. In China, nunnery takes on another meaning. This week my friend Susan and I visited the Chi Lin Nunnery and Nan Lian Garden. It was a day of serenity and beauty.

The Chi Lin Nunnery is located in Kowloon a short walk from the Diamond Hill MTR station. As we walked up the street I was excited and curious to visit this Buddhist nunnery. Chi Lin is styled after the architecture of the Tang Dynasty. The original buildings were built in the 1930s and totally rebuilt in 1998. Each building is made of wood, but without the use of a single nail. The pieces fit together somewhat like a jigsaw puzzle. The Chinese believe that when wood is used to make a building its life continues to fill the structure. I can definitely tell you there is wonderful life in these buildings.

Upon entering the first courtyard we saw four large ponds filled with blooming lotus flowers that symbolize purity. Each pond has dragons head water spouts that are just beautiful. In Chinese mythology dragons control rainfall so this is very appropriate. Bonsai trees and Buddhist philosophies surround the edges of the courtyard. One of my favorite sayings is, “It is better to travel well than to arrive.”

Next we entered the Hall of Celestial Kings that has a large golden statue of the seated Buddha surrounded by other deities. The Main Hall contains the Sakyumani Buddha and disciples. Vases of flowers and bowls of fruit are placed on the altars in front of these. Throughout our visit chanting prayers could be heard. The beauty and peacefulness of the nunnery kept our words to a limit as we took it all in. This is a place you experience and enjoy. 

A bridge over the street connects Nan Lian Garden to the nunnery. The Garden is a Tang style garden with a one way circular route that is meant to bring peace and harmony. Walking across the bridge we saw the Perfection Pavilion and Lotus Pond. The Pavilion is a gold leaf covered tower with two bright orange bridges. The pond is filled with giant koi that are by far and away the largest both of us had ever seen. 

We stopped to have lunch at the vegetarian restaurant, Long Men Lou, located within the garden. The restaurant is built into the side of a hill that has a waterfall flowing over a large glass wall which makes up one side of the building. It’s lovely to watch the water while eating and looking out upon the garden. We ordered two dishes - something with avocados and tomatoes and another with oyster mushrooms and rice. I’m not quite sure what either was, but both were excellent. When examining the menu we did see Yellow Funghi and Bamboo Pith Soup, but after a few chuckles we decided we just weren’t that brave. We were served some type of pumpkin and carrot soup (we think) which was very tasty and light. 

After lunch we continued along the path and came to a building called Xiang Hui Huan (meaning a house embracing a sea of fragrance) that housed a special exhibition of bamboo carvings by Cheung Pak Yue. The carvings were absolutely exquisite and contained bamboo hanging screens, armrests, incense burners, tea canisters and, my favorite, birdcages. Each piece was exceptional in its detail and depth. I feel so blessed that we were able to see this exhibit before it closes at the end of April. 

Back on the path we enjoyed the Buddha pines, bonsais, banyans and numerous other shrubs and flowers. Relaxing Chinese music was piped in from hidden speakers. You truly do feel the tranquility that is meant to be conveyed while in the garden although you only need to look to the east or west to see high rises jutting up around you. Hong Kong is no doubt the city of contrasts. I see it time and time again and it never does cease to amaze me. 

We left the garden feeling calm and relaxed, walked down the street to the MTR and joined the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong. Yes indeed the city of contrasts.


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