Chi Lin Nunnery and Nan Lian Garden

When I hear the word nunnery my Catholic upbringing conjures up images of kind women in black and white habits - nuns. In China, nunnery takes on another meaning. This week my friend Susan and I visited the Chi Lin Nunnery and Nan Lian Garden. It was a day of serenity and beauty.

The Chi Lin Nunnery is located in Kowloon a short walk from the Diamond Hill MTR station. As we walked up the street I was excited and curious to visit this Buddhist nunnery. Chi Lin is styled after the architecture of the Tang Dynasty. The original buildings were built in the 1930s and totally rebuilt in 1998. Each building is made of wood, but without the use of a single nail. The pieces fit together somewhat like a jigsaw puzzle. The Chinese believe that when wood is used to make a building its life continues to fill the structure. I can definitely tell you there is wonderful life in these buildings.

Upon entering the first courtyard we saw four large ponds filled with blooming lotus flowers that symbolize purity. Each pond has dragons head water spouts that are just beautiful. In Chinese mythology dragons control rainfall so this is very appropriate. Bonsai trees and Buddhist philosophies surround the edges of the courtyard. One of my favorite sayings is, “It is better to travel well than to arrive.”

Next we entered the Hall of Celestial Kings that has a large golden statue of the seated Buddha surrounded by other deities. The Main Hall contains the Sakyumani Buddha and disciples. Vases of flowers and bowls of fruit are placed on the altars in front of these. Throughout our visit chanting prayers could be heard. The beauty and peacefulness of the nunnery kept our words to a limit as we took it all in. This is a place you experience and enjoy. 

A bridge over the street connects Nan Lian Garden to the nunnery. The Garden is a Tang style garden with a one way circular route that is meant to bring peace and harmony. Walking across the bridge we saw the Perfection Pavilion and Lotus Pond. The Pavilion is a gold leaf covered tower with two bright orange bridges. The pond is filled with giant koi that are by far and away the largest both of us had ever seen. 

We stopped to have lunch at the vegetarian restaurant, Long Men Lou, located within the garden. The restaurant is built into the side of a hill that has a waterfall flowing over a large glass wall which makes up one side of the building. It’s lovely to watch the water while eating and looking out upon the garden. We ordered two dishes - something with avocados and tomatoes and another with oyster mushrooms and rice. I’m not quite sure what either was, but both were excellent. When examining the menu we did see Yellow Funghi and Bamboo Pith Soup, but after a few chuckles we decided we just weren’t that brave. We were served some type of pumpkin and carrot soup (we think) which was very tasty and light. 

After lunch we continued along the path and came to a building called Xiang Hui Huan (meaning a house embracing a sea of fragrance) that housed a special exhibition of bamboo carvings by Cheung Pak Yue. The carvings were absolutely exquisite and contained bamboo hanging screens, armrests, incense burners, tea canisters and, my favorite, birdcages. Each piece was exceptional in its detail and depth. I feel so blessed that we were able to see this exhibit before it closes at the end of April. 

Back on the path we enjoyed the Buddha pines, bonsais, banyans and numerous other shrubs and flowers. Relaxing Chinese music was piped in from hidden speakers. You truly do feel the tranquility that is meant to be conveyed while in the garden although you only need to look to the east or west to see high rises jutting up around you. Hong Kong is no doubt the city of contrasts. I see it time and time again and it never does cease to amaze me. 

We left the garden feeling calm and relaxed, walked down the street to the MTR and joined the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong. Yes indeed the city of contrasts.

A Little Bit Of Sevens Heaven

It seems that with the large family we have our children have played almost every sport. Someone in our family has participated in baseball, basketball, softball, soccer, swimming, football, field hockey, wrestling, lacrosse and in-line hockey (of which I actually coached one game). They might have even tried a few more, but the one that we never did experience was rugby. My knowledge of the game was non-existent until last weekend when we attended the Hong Kong Sevens.

The Hong Kong Sevens is three days of international rugby playing that attracts spectators and teams from around the world. It is the Super Bowl and World Series blended into one big weekend long party. The fans come ready to cheer and be seen before, during and long after the games. It’s Caucasians gone wild which actually can be humorous and at times embarrassing. 

Rusty and I had tickets for Friday and were lucky enough to see 12 matches and the women's final. I was hoping that I would be able to understand a little of the game and was pleasantly surprised that it is very easy to grasp. The Sevens is unique in that there are only seven players (not fifteen) and each half is only seven minutes long. This makes for very fast paced and high scoring games. 

The terminology was also easy to pick up. The field is called the pitch, to score is a try and the huddle is a scrum. Five points is awarded for a try and a kick through the goal posts is two points. I must admit that I had to suppress a laugh at some of the names of the positions such as scrum half and hooker, but hey American football has tight ends so who am I to say anything. 

The most amazing thing about the tournament is the incredible physical intensity of the game. I don’t mean aggression, but pure strength and stamina. These men are solid masses of muscle. We sat behind one of the benches and I could see the ripples of muscles in their backs through their jerseys. Plus they play without absolutely any pads or protection, yet have fewer injuries then soccer. The Sevens players are athletes of the highest caliber. 

This is obviously an ex-pat extravaganza and the Brits, Aussies, Kiwis and Scots came out in full force to cheer on their teams. We did all cheer loudly for the hometown favorites, but the Hong Kong team does not have the size to compete equally with a team from someplace like South Africa. We were lucky to see the US play Japan on Friday. Everyone was so happy that the Japanese team even made it to the tournament that the cheers for them unfortunately drowned out anything for the US. 

I would be remiss if I did not mention a big part of the tournament is the spectators. The south side of the stadium is reserved only for those over the age of eighteen. People come dressed in costumes and consume mass quantities of beer. They actually sold Carlsberg and Guinness in pitchers! I saw fans dressed like Gumby, Peekachu, Spongebob, vikings, a banana, Mario and Luigi, the list goes on and on. If it sounds like Mardi Gras for rugby fans then you have the general idea. And although you would think people would be rude and obnoxious I personally experienced none of that. I’m not sure of the significance of dressing up, but it does make for some interesting videos on the jumbo-tron.

When all was said and done New Zealand won the tournament. “We were playing for Christchurch,” they said. Amidst all the crisis's and tragedies in the world today it’s great to be able to escape and enjoy some Sevens Heaven. Can’t wait for next year.

What's In A Name Card?

There was a time when those possessing business cards were considered professionals. Not everyone in a company was given cards only those whose positions were considered important. The first time my boss decided to order business cards for me I truly felt that I had made it. I had a career not a job. I was someone with enough importance to carry business cards. 

In those days your business card contained the company logo, address, your name, title, work number and maybe a fax number. It wasn’t until years later that email addresses, websites and cell numbers were added. The quality of a card was also an indication of the success of the company. If the card had raised letters you knew this business was doing well. Those of us in the non-profit field were happy to just have white cards with black letters. Color printing was considered snazzy for npo’s back then.

When I became president of a chamber of commerce I added my cell number to the card. I remember the printer asking if I really wanted to share that information with everyone. My thought was yes I do! I want every member to know that they are important enough to me to have my cell number. Trust and faith is how you build relationships both personal and professional. I can honestly say that no one ever abused the privilege of having my cell.

So what exactly does all of this have to do with Hong Kong? Well everyone here has name or business cards. They are prominently displayed at businesses and handed out with regularity. There is also a correct way to exchange cards. Cards are handed to others with two hands and accepted with both. The card is then read and admired before being put away. No throwing it in your purse for future reference without purposefully perusing it first.

At first I was shocked that people who have no jobs would actually have name cards. But then it made sense and the importance in the ex-pat world was made clear. Ex-pats meet many people who are very helpful about exchanging information. By having their card you can contact them for future reference. There’s no searching for a pen and paper to write information down or trying to get it in your phone very quickly. Name cards are an efficient way to say here’s who I am.

After being in Hong Kong over six weeks I decided, and several people recommended, it was time (actually past time) to order my name cards. I asked a friend if she had placed her order. She replied, “No, I haven’t figured out who I am yet.” Her answer hit home. That is what was delaying me. We both had left jobs back in the states and weren’t quite sure of our identity here. We didn’t have careers so what would we put on our cards?

Enough I told her recently after a meeting. We’re going to order our cards today. Who we are right now may not be who we are next year, but so what? Cards can be recycled and new ones ordered if we become someone else. 

The two of us headed into Central. There is any alley next to the MTR station that has stalls for ordering business cards, shoe repair and buying phone cards. Central is the Central Business District so those are the items of importance in that area. We stopped at a stall which had been recommended. The owner was friendly, knowledgeable and spoke good English. All pluses! 

Now it was time to make the big decisions. I settled on a sturdy cream colored paper with black print. I wanted a simple font and had to choose by looking at other cards. No font names just examples. I included my address, HK mobile, US mobile and email. It’s nice to have your friends’ numbers when everyone is back in the states for the summer. I also asked for the information to be printed in Chinese on the back of the card. That way friends can hand the card to the taxi driver when they come to my flat. 

But something was missing. How can the card say who I am right now? A chop. Yes, my very own Chinese chop. A chop is a Chinese character stamp used in place of a signature. It is square or round and traditionally used with red ink. This stall also sold chops. There happened to be several displayed on the counter. Lo and behold one example was the chop of Diane. How odd indeed since most Chinese call me Diana. Diane seems to be rather difficult to pronounce, but Diana comes out fine. Well of course I added the chop of Diane to my name cards and ordered a stone chop for personal use. 

I picked the cards up yesterday. They were lovely. Beautiful cream paper, black print and a red chop in the upper left hand corner. Now I can start handing them out. I’m so happy that I have finally figured out who am I. At least for a few months anyway.

Cantonese Class Part 1

I signed up for a four session Cantonese class with the AWA. I know that I will never actually speak Cantonese. I’ve been told it’s even more difficult to learn than Mandarin. One single word may be spoken with eight different intonations thus creating eight totally separate words. What I am aiming for is being able to communicate with taxi drivers, merchants and hopefully waitresses/waiters. If I can accomplish that I will be pleased.

Our first class was held on a large balcony of an apartment building overlooking Wan Chai. The class was made up of twelve women who all had the same desire to communicate on the most basic of levels. Our teacher, Liza Boltz, is the renown author of Dim Sum a survival guide. She is bright, enthusiastic and ever so patient. 

Liza handed us thirteen pages of words and phrases separated into categories like: greetings, numbers, transportation and my personal favorite taxi Cantonese. She explained how the simplest error in intonation can cause the meaning of words to change drastically. One of her students thought he was asking the taxi driver to take him to Stanley Market while he was actually saying he wanted to go to Stanley chicken poo poo! We all laughed heartily while she told us that we shouldn’t be surprised if our Cantonese causes laughter from others. Yes indeed it will happen to us too.

As I listened intently I couldn't help but struggle to hear Liza’s sounds and my own repetitions. In typical Hong Kong fashion we were sitting right next door to a construction site. Everything in Hong Kong is under construction. Buildings are demolished and new ones built before you even realize what’s happening. So here we sat willing ourselves to hear and learn while the drilling rang in our ears and minds.

We repeated words and phrases individually and as a group. We encouraged each other and tried to help with sounds that are so unfamiliar to us. Is choh pronounced as chow, chaw or caw in the phrase “m choch” meaning not too bad? Hearing and speaking Cantonese can be so very difficult to us westerners. 

Liza also stressed the only way to learn Cantonese, as with any new language, is to use it. We would make many mistakes and say many incorrect and maybe even inappropriate things, but when the laughter has died down people would appreciate us for trying. Then one of the ladies in the class told the story of how she had tried to speak Cantonese to a taxi driver and he had responded with, “Lady you need to practice more.” Okay, so maybe not everyone will be supportive!

I was determined to try out some phrases with the people I see everyday - the customer service desk attendants, cleaning woman and guards at our apartment. The next morning I greeted everyone with “jo san” or good morning. They smiled and replied "jo san". That was simple, but the true test would come with a real phrase. 

Liza had insisted we must learn to say and use the phrase, “Sik joh faan mei a?” The literal meaning is, “Have you eaten?” When the Cantonese were farmers they greeted each other with this phrase since they probably only ate one meal each day and it was important to know if your friends had eaten. Thus it developed into a Cantonese, “What’s happening?” This phrase must be part of our vocabulary she stressed.

As I walked down the drive I was determined I would say, “Sik joh faan mei a?” to the guard. I was hoping my favorite one would be working. He’s always smiling and is so very warm and friendly. I reached the bottom of the drive and blurted it out. My favorite guard replied and then waited for my response. Nothing, I have nothing! I have no clue what he just said. As I got closer he explained that he was trying to tell me that yes he had breakfast, but really that phrase is better used after lunch. Well thank goodness because maybe after lunch I’ll know how to respond. Actually it won’t probably be until after my next class.

Stop And Smell The Primroses!

When I was growing up my aunt owned a floral shop. In those days people not only sent flowers for special occasions such as Valentine's Day, Mothers’ Day and Easter, but beautiful floral centerpieces would adorn dinner tables for holidays and parties. Florists also took the place of wedding planners organizing not only the bouquets, boutonnieres and corsages, but the candles, runners and invitations. I worked at my aunt’s shop almost every weekend while I was in high school. It was wonderful to be among the flowers though the brides and their mothers are a different story entirely. I do believe that is where my love affair with all things green began.

So it is no wonder that I went to the the Hong Kong Flower Show not once, but twice this past week. The Hong Kong Flower Show is a nine day event organized by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department. It takes place in Victoria Park in Causeway Bay. This year’s theme was “Symphony of Spring Flowers” and the theme flower was “primula” or primrose. Primula plants are perennials that come in bold shades of red, yellow, pink, violet and orange. They are one of the first spring blooming flowers.

The cost of admission to the flower show was HK $14 (about US $1.77). What an amazing deal. Where can you see such beauty for that price? The show covers acres and consists of floral arrangements, landscape displays, plant exhibitions and merchants selling food and plants.

I began with the floral arrangements. Everything from large-scale arrangements that were several feet in length to pots filled with flowers. Some followed the music theme and others focused on color or flower species. 

Next, I couldn't help but be drawn to the landscape displays. Think Rose Bowl Parade floats, but not on wheels. Large displays of larger than life characters made of flowers and plants. One rather humorous one had an octopus playing the drums, a pig playing an electric organ and a smiling cat playing the guitar. There was also a huge rabbit with headphones on.  It was funny and spectacular at the same time.

Another display had numerous pandas, some eating bamboo, and all looking adorable. There were two very regal elephants that must have been twenty feet high. A beautiful temple with two dancing rabbits was perfect for this Year of the Rabbit. The color, the humor, the texture it was all gorgeous and amazing. How they keep everything alive for nine days is beyond me.

Several consulates and businesses had displays. South Africa used giraffes in their exhibit. Ocean Park had dolphins, seals and coral. Even the highway department made an overpass covered in plants and a darling car covered in flowers.

Plant Societies proudly displayed orchids, African violets, cacti, bonsai and more. The orchids were outstanding and seemed to be the most popular purchase. I was very tempted to buy one, but the thought of carrying it on the MTR and then to our flat seemed like a huge endeavor that I wasn’t willing to pursue.

Vegetables and fruit were not forgotten. My favorite was a large rabbit made of oranges, lemons and tangerines pushing a wheel barrow of vegetables. Walkways lined with different varieties of lettuce not only looked stunning, but also delicious. 

After much time photographing and wandering I sat down with some green tea and a snack. I have no idea what it’s called, but it’s basically a small, brown bag of warm, golden balls of dough that taste like Belgian waffles. You can buy it at the street markets. It’s sort of Chinese carnival food. Probably not very healthy, but oh so good.

While I was enjoying my comfort food a young Chinese mother and her adorable little son sat down next to me. I was watching their interaction and we were smiling at each other then all of a sudden I was crying. My eyes filled and overflowed before I could do anything. Their tender interaction reminded me of my sons and the many times we had gone to the botanical garden. I suddenly realized I missed them. I missed the playful little boys they were and the wonderful young men they had become. 

Embarrassed by this sudden and overwhelming display of emotion I picked up my backpack and dug around for a tissue. I had broken my number one rule - do not leave home without tissues and wet wipes. I walked away wiping my tears on my shirtsleeve and wondered what had happened to me. I suppose you really can love the life you’re living while missing the loves in your life. All the more reason to always stop and smell the primroses!

Humidity in Hong Kong

This morning I woke up to fog settling over the harbour. The sun was trying to peak over the eastern edge of the island and I had hopes it would all burn off. But as I drank my coffee and waited for the morning paper to arrive I could see the sun diminishing and the fog growing more dense. Kowloon was gone and one by one the landmark buildings were disappearing before my very eyes. I poured my second cup of coffee, walked out of the kitchen and found myself in the clouds. It’s time I thought to myself. Time to break out those dehumidifiers and put them to work. 


Yesterday was sunny and warm, yet also humid. The temperature reached 26.5 C and the humidity peaked at 90%. Direct sunshine seems much more intense here because of the longitude. I was happy for the sunshine although I was perspiring and my clothes were sticking to me. When I entered a building the air conditioning made me feel cold with my wet clothes clinging to me. 


Since Hong Kong is a sub-tropical climate it’s always humid. The humidity varies from 50% to 95% and of course the temperature can make that humidity feel much worse. The high humidity also causes mold. Mold on walls, clothes, books, curtains, anything in your apartment. Mold removal is often a topic of conversation. Chemicals to use and how to use them are openly discussed while the benefits and effects are compared. Ex-pats are known to take expensive winter clothing items home during the summer so they are safe from mold. I’m actually considering during that myself.


How to prevent mold is another discussion entirely. Dehumidifiers are a must. How many you have in your flat is analyzed by friends and strangers alike. Brands of dehumidifiers are discussed with the same knowledge and passion most Americans possess for automobiles. The noise factor is also extremely important to some. On the advice of many we purchased one large unit for the living room/dining room, one medium sized unit for the master bedroom and another medium sized unit that we plan to rotate between the study and the guest room. We may move that unit into the kitchen periodically if needed or we may just have to buy another one. 


Another mold prevention is to purchase plastic boxes of dehumidifier crystals and place them in each closet. They come in different scents such as jasmine, lavender and lemon. When the crystals have absorbed the moisture they become gel like and then they’re thrown out. You know those little packets that are in boxes of just about everything you purchase? You probably toss them out and wonder what good they are. Well almost everything you buy is made in Asia and it’s very humid here so they actually are very important. Those packets really do help to keep new items fresh. We haven’t tried the boxes of crystals yet, but they are on my list of things for Rusty to help schlep home one Saturday.


So this morning I did it. I pried open the boxes and pulled out the dehumidifiers all the while hoping that “some assembly required” did not mean anything more than a hammer or scissors because that is the extent of my tool collection. The directions did say I might need a pliers, but thank goodness I was able to attach the wheels on my own. (There really was no assembly just a few minor pulls and shoves.) The set-up directions were simple and before I knew it all three were up and running. 


I set them on high as directed. It’s essential to get all of the humidity out of the air for the dehumidifiers to work steadily and properly. Then they can be turned to low and left on for the rest of the summer. Some people run them all year. Even on high I don’t think they’re too loud. It’s sort of like white noise. I am amazed how very quickly they are filling up. I didn’t realize how humid it was in our apartment. Although I must confess, I knew it was getting bad when my slippers were sticking to the marble and wood floors the other evening! Okay, maybe I really should have done this sooner.

Private Kitchens

Dining is a true event in Hong Kong. Meals take several hours to savor and enjoy. Even lunch is taken seriously. It is not gulped at your desk. Most workers take a full one hour lunch break.


Dinner is an entire evening out and the cuisine choice is limitless. Do you prefer Cantonese, Shanghaiese, Shezun, Vietnamese, Manchurian, Korean, Thai, Japanese, Indian, French, Italian? The list literally goes on and on and this only includes restaurants. What about Private Kitchens?


I had never heard of Private Kitchens before moving to Hong Kong. They are rather intimate dining establishments that definitely require reservations. They do not advertise therefore information about them is word of mouth only. They do not have an official restaurant license so a “Members Only” sign is posted outside the door. Some even require a discreet knock at the door to be admitted, rather reminiscent of the old speakeasy days. They also are not at street level (as all interesting things in HK are not) and you must really know where and how to find them. 


Most Private Kitchens have a rather limited menu which may change daily. Sometimes they may only offer one or two entrees each evening. Each Private Kitchen prepares a specific type of cuisine. They also do not have liquor licenses, but customers may bring their own wine and there may or may not be a corkage fee. 


Now I have heard two very different yet equally intriguing explanations as to the origin of Private Kitchens. I will share both with you and let you decide which seems more plausible. I personally believe both are possible especially here in Hong Kong.


The first theory I heard claimed that there were many fine chefs in Hong Kong who became tired of the long hours working for demanding restaurant owners. These chefs wanted to open their own restaurants, but the cost of renting a suitable location and paying for a license was too high. The chefs then opened their own private dining establishments. Since they are not opened to the “public” they are not required to obtain the different licenses. Therefore the cost of doing business is much lower, but the quality is much higher. Sounds plausible to me.


The second theory I heard claimed that during the SARS (Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome) outbreak many restaurants were closed and people were told not to dine out. Hong Kongers love their dining so chefs opened private establishments were customers could eat without fear of infection. As I stated most of the Private Kitchens are rather small and tables may even be partitioned off thus providing a hygienic eating environment. This also seems plausible. 


I have no idea if either theory is true, but this week I was invited to a French Private Kitchen for an evening out with my FY (Foon Ying) ladies. We were taking our intrepid leader, Susan, to dinner to thank her for a wonderful Foon Ying class. 


The five of us met at the MTR and took it to the Wan Chai station. From there we walked to a very nondescript building and road the elevator up to the 6th floor where yes the sign said “Members Only”. This Private Kitchen was actually very large, but with curtains partitioning off each table area. There were private areas for two and larger ones for groups of four or more. The ceiling was low with pipes running overhead, but intertwined in them was fake greenery, silk flowers and little white lights. On the walls were numerous silk wreaths. The tables were covered with layers of table clothes, table runners and place mats. Very kitschy French!


We had brought two bottles of wine and they were immediately opened and placed in a wine bucket. The menu was much more extensive than I had anticipated and the choices were excellent. My meal consisted of escargot, spinach and scallop soup and duck. The duck was possibly the best I have ever eaten - extremely tender and tasty. 


Being ladies who enjoy their food we each ordered a different dessert and of course we shared and compared our choices. Obviously we are not very germ conscious ourselves. We all agreed the best was an apricot and dark chocolate tort - simply scrumptious. 


After tea, laughter and more conversation we realized we had just spent over three hours enjoying dinner. Yes, our dinner was an event and for most of us it was our first Private Kitchen experience. How very HK of us!

Building a Harmonious Enviroment

We recently received a notice from the Property Services Office of our apartment building. They often send notices advising us of building repairs or events. I found this particular notice to be humorous, endearing and rather thought provoking. If apartment dwellers in the US could see things in this manner I believe everyone might be much happier.


The notice was entitled, “Help to Build a Harmonious and Pleasant Environment”. It began, In order to maintain a quite and harmonious living environment, residents are kindly advised to be considerate and not to create excessive noise. The following are the useful tips to reduce the excessive noise: 

• Guiding your young children not to run at home 

(Notice it does not say spank, scold or threaten your children within an inch of their lives, but rather guide them? Now I don’t want to get into child rearing techniques or theories because that is so very personal and controversial, but I love the term guide. My boys are all adults and I believe I’m still guiding them.)

• Trying not to wear high heels at home as the loud noise those heels make when they hit the hard floor 

(Those are not typos. I am copying word for word. But who actually wears heels at home? Most Chinese take their shoes off at the door. I’ve always had my family do this because it really does keep the house clean. And let’s face it who knows what’s on the bottom of your shoes after walking around Hong Kong.)

• Placing musical instrument or Hi-Fi system on top of carpet or rug when necessary

(When was the last time you used the word Hi-Fi? Do people under the age of forty even know what a Hi-Fi is? Everyone here has ipods so I’ve yet to hear music playing outside of a restaurant. But I do agree. Let’s keep our stereos down. I don't want to be subjected to your Asian fusion and I'm sure you don't want to hear my Tim McGraw or Aretha Franklin.)

• Try to control your dog from barking at night time or seek help from professional services

(I’m not sure whether the owner or the dog should receive professional services. Most likely both. Though I must admit if I was a dog cooped up in an apartment all day long and only able to go for walks and do my business on concrete sidewalks I’d be barking too. Dogs are NOT allowed in parks in Hong Kong for sanitary reasons and must be leashed at all times. As much as I miss my dog Mona this is not a place for a four legged friend.)


There were a few more suggestions, but I think you get the gist of it. The notice ended with, “You are cordially invited to jointly build a harmonious and pleasant living environment in Regence Royale.” When was the last time you jointly built something harmonious with anyone? Something to think about.

Pizza Predicament

The fact of the matter is I’ve been craving pizza. Not steak, burgers or fries, but hot cheesy pizza. New York style or St. Louis thin crust I really don’t care at this point. When I was growing up we didn’t have pizza delivery so my mom would make homemade pizza. I’m talking hand-rolled thin crust dough with fresh mushrooms, green peppers, onions, sausage, pepperoni and provel cheese. The pizza was baked on a rectangular pan and she would cut it into squares. Yes, my mom was ahead of her time in pizza making.


Saturday morning Rusty and I ventured out to try a new market. It’s down the road and quiet a few steps, but within walking distance so we were excited. We walked in and immediately fixated on real shopping carts. Not the little baskets on wheels. We were grinning ear to ear. This is looking good our smiles said.


The market had lots of Western food items plus they weren’t expired or near the expiration date which is often the case in HK. Very promising! As we were filling our cart we stopped at the bakery for bread. In the bakery case were bagels, muffins, pastries and small  6 inch pizzas. Anything with dough is in the bakery section even if it has meat or cheese in it. I asked the woman for two pizzas which she packed while I waited eagerly.


Of course we ended up buying more than we anticipated and had to lug everything up the tramway path (stairs) and down the street to our flat. Thank goodness Rusty works out because we were toting many pounds. We put all of our new found food excitement away then I pulled out the pizzas and heated them. 


As we sat down to eat I noticed something unusual on our pizza - corn. Yes, the yellow off the cob stuff. Well okay I like corn. I can live with that. We both took a bite and then another. This was very unusual pizza. The laughter started. Our pizza toppings were corn, pineapple, ham, cut up hot dogs and a little cheese. Well maybe this isn’t really pizza.


Now I must tell you that my very favorite St. Louis pizza is Imo’s pepperoni  and pineapple. Don’t judge until you’ve had it. It’s delicious! So I’m not opposed to strange toppings, but well this is beyond strange (hot dogs?). And to make matters worse now I really wanted pizza.


We decided we would walk down to Wan Chai to buy some plants and stop at Pizza Express for an early dinner. I had been told by several friends that although it is a chain the pizza is very good. Off we went determined to buy plants, pots and pizza.


After browsing, searching and haggling we were both ready for some beer and a pizza pie. (Rusty more for the beer and me more for the pizza.) My small backpack was full and Rusty was once again forced into sherpa duty. We made our way down the busy street to Pizza Express. As we got closer I notice something didn’t look right. There was a huge crowd inside and a big banner on the door - “Happy Birthday! The party’s here!” You’ve got to be kidding a private party! 


For an instant I thought I might cry. I really wanted, desired and craved pizza. I wasn’t asking for much after all. There are McDonald’s all over this island. What about pizza? I took a deep breath and we went to the restaurant next door. I’m a grown woman. I can handle this. I had a shrimp and avocado wrap. And just to make myself feel better I had an apple tart with ice cream and caramel sauce for dessert. Sometimes dessert really is the best way to deal with disappointment.

Cheung Chau Island

Well I finally made it to another island. This was something I had really been wanting to do, but was waiting for the weather to improve. It seems like overnight it became Spring. Winter only lasts about 6 - 8 weeks in Hong Kong so now I am sitting with my windows open and enjoying the air. I hesitate to call it “fresh air” since pollution is a real concern here, but I do believe that is another blog entirely. 


I signed up to do a walking tour of Cheung Chau Island with the AWA. I met ten other ladies at Pier 5 in the morning and we boarded the ferry. It was rather hazy when we left, but the possibility of a nice day was apparent. The sun just needed to get stronger and burn things off.  


Our 50 minute ferry ride provided great views of many other small islands. Hong Kong consists of 238, mostly uninhabited, islands. We passed cruise ships, container ships, fishing vessels and other ferries. The ride was smooth and exceptionally easy. Even those with squeamish stomachs would be fine.


Cheung Chau Island is sometimes called Pirate Island because of the infamous pirate Cheung Po Tsai who hid out there. Tales say that he hid his loot in a cave on the southwest end of the island (although it's yet to be found.) The island is also called Dumbbell Island because it is narrow in the middle and wider on each end somewhat resembling a dumbbell. I much prefer Pirate Island for the glamour and mystery it conjures up.


As we approached Cheung Chau the sight of the many fishing boats and junks was exciting. The harbor was filled with junks nestled side by side so inhabitants can step from one boat to another. China has fisher people who are born and raised on boats. They eat, sleep and bath on their boat. They never get off except to go to market. Some even have dogs, but I’m not sure how that works. I’ll let your imagination go wild with that one.


We disembarked on the waterfront which was lined with open air stalls selling everything - vegetables, seafood, sandals and seashells. One stall was even selling dried puffer fish. I’m not sure where the shells came from because the beaches in China tend to be dirty and rather polluted. Yes, definitely not the best places to swim although they are very crowded during the summer. Plus there are many shark attacks, some resulting in deaths, in China each year. That is why public beaches have wire mesh safety netting surrounding the swimming areas.


Another fascinating aspect of the island is that it has no cars. Row upon row of bicycles lined the street. People were riding everywhere. As we strolled along the praya I stopped for the most spectacular sight. An elderly woman, wearing a straw hat, was riding an incredibly old and rusty bicycle with training wheels. She looked straight ahead and pedaled. I had to jump out of her way as I stood slack jawed watching her. That would have been a priceless photograph, but the memory will be forever etched in mind. 


Now I must admit that equally surprising was the McDonald’s right on the waterfront. No cars, but a McDonald’s? How does that work? Where does the meat come from? Or maybe I don’t really want to know. 


We continued on and began walking through a charming neighborhood with laundry hanging from the balconies and plants in the windows. No matter where you go in China there is laundry hanging from windows and balconies. In the center of the neighborhood was a basketball court and next to it a large, beautiful temple. The dichotomy in Hong Kong is always eye catching and intriguing. 


The group walked along the beach and up a path lined with lush foliage to several exquisite temples. I was able to take photos in the temples which is normally forbidden. At the altars in the temples people leave fruit and flowers and burn incense for the gods when asking them for blessings. In one of the temples was a bird munching happily on the fruit. I wondered what sort of life the gods had in store for him!


Our walk continued through the center of the island until we came back to the praya. The eleven of us found tables at an outdoor restaurant on the waterfront where we settled in for tea and lunch. We ordered lots of seafood, vegetables and rice. None of us were shy about eating and sharing our delicious dishes. It’s amazing how much a group of hungry women can consume. 


After lunch we strolled the praya taking in the sights of the market and enjoying the beautiful day that had developed. The sunshine, companionship and colorful sights made us board the fast ferry back to HK Island with smiles and new friends. In thirty minutes it was back to the island I now call home.

Haircut in Hong Kong

I’m not a girly girl. I really never have cared about my outside as much as my inside. I don’t use hair curlers (hot or not), flat irons (my hair is naturally flat and I don’t consider that a good thing) or curling irons (the one time I tried I ended up with a 4 inch burn across my forehead). My way of styling my hair is bending over, hanging my head upside down and blow drying. I stand up and am ready to go. I don’t even keep a comb or brush in my purse. 


Having said that I am very particular about how my hair looks. A great stylist can give me a haircut that enables me to maintain my wash and wear lifestyle. I have been going to Naturally Pure, an Aveda salon, in Webster Groves since it first opened many years ago. The owner Amanda has become my friend and confidant. We share stories about her dogs, her sisters and her fiance and my dog, my kids and my husband. Remember the old advertisement “Only her hairdresser knows for sure”? Well Amanda knows plenty.


So with this history how would I ever get my hair cut in Hong Kong? Whom could I trust? And more importantly would they speak English well enough to understand what I wanted? I told Rusty I would put my thumb and forefinger about a ½ inch apart to show that is the amount I wanted cut off. He said they would probably think that was how long I wanted my hair and I would end up buzzed. Oh my that communication thing again.


I confidently went to the Aveda website (they are an international company) and found four salons in Hong Kong two of which were on the island. I called the salon in Central. The Central Business District is decidedly upscale and full of much glitz and glamour. I figured they had to be good.


The young receptionist I spoke with on the phone sounded friendly and her English was fairly good so I made an appointment. Things were looking positive. So why was I nervous? I had butterflies in my stomach the morning of the haircut. My nerves were at a level somewhere between the apprehension of getting a colonoscopy and being summoned to the Principal's office at my sons’ school. Both of which I’ve done and neither have I enjoyed. 


I arrived at exactly the appointed time and felt comforted by the familiar sights of Aveda products and the kind receptionist. She escorted me to the chair and then a nice young man named Kenneth put a cape on me. I asked if he knew how to cut hair like mine. He smiled and said nothing. I repeated myself only to have him smile and walk away. This was not looking good. 


As I was getting even more nervous a young man came up and introduced himself. His name was Christopher and he was my stylist. His English was excellent and I started to relax. He assured me that I needed a different hairstyle. We discussed some options and for some reason I succumbed. Yes, I would go with a new ‘do.


Kenneth whisked me off to a quite room with chairs that reclined back into flat sinks. I was literally laying down to get my hair washed. I do enjoy the warm water and relaxation of someone massaging my scalp, but this was beyond that. Kenneth spent the next half hour gently washing what felt like each and every hair on my head. Then he conditioned and I think conditioned some more. I basically lost all track of time. 


When he took me back to the chair for my haircut I was ready to agree to anything. Christopher rushed over and explained that he was in the middle of something and could I possibly wait a few minutes. Well of course! I picked up a magazine and started to page through. Unfortunately this was one of those rags that has models with calves the size of my wrist, makeup that looks like something from Rocky Horror and jewelry that costs the same as a new car. The good vibes were gone. Where was Christopher? 15 minutes turned into 20, then 25, then 30. Just as I was getting ready to take off my cape and bolt for the door Christopher appeared.


He had someone bring me tea and talked me back into that new haircut. He snipped, clipped and cut with the precision of a seamstress and the intensity of a surgeon. He assured me this style would be much more flattering and comfortable in the humidity of Hong Kong. 


As the last lock dropped to the floor I looked in the mirror at my new ‘do and smiled. I’m not sure if I’m really stylin or if I look like Justine Beiber’s mother I thought. But that doesn’t matter. I made it thorough my first haircut in Hong Kong without crying.