Don't Inhale

The air’s so think you can see it. It doesn’t have that brown color that you get in Beijing. It’s rather gray looking. It’s a cross between heat, humidity and pollution. I know the official word in the states is smog, but somehow that doesn’t seem to do it for me. Let’s face it we’re talking pollution at its finest or should I say worst. I know it’s bad when I look across the harbour and can’t see a thing past the first row or two of buildings.

When I returned to Hong Kong the first few days were marvelous. Clear blue skies with little white cotton puffs of clouds. On the south side of the island the South China Sea was an inviting turquoise blue dotted with small triangles of yellow and orange wind surfers. The scene was so tranquil I almost forgot about the sharks that inhabit those waters and I actually had the urge to take wind surfing lessons. A taxi ride past the Tai Tam Reservoir with the magnificent Victorian era stonework bridge looming over the teal green water gave me the urge to dive in. Now this is the sub-tropical climate I was longing for.

But short lived it was. Last Thursday the grey settled in. I’m not talking grey skies as in rain. I mean grey air as in I can see what I’m breathing! I was in Kowloon last week and mistakenly thought I could make it across the street before the light changed. My judgement was way off and I got caught in the middle of six lanes of traffic. As I was standing there praying some vehicle wouldn’t swerve ever so slightly I realized I was feeling light headed. I could actually feel the air I was breathing in my nostrils. The particulate matter from the buses was literally going up my nose. That combined with the heat from the urban jungle was making me woozy.

So that evening it started. The itchy eyes that actually hurt. The sinus pain that made my face ache. The dull headache that wouldn’t go away. Thank goodness I brought two bottles of Zrytec back from the states. I swear they should film allergy medication commercials here. The pollution along with the mold and tree pollens makes for a magnificent witches brew of allergy issues.

Yet we refuse to give in to the climate. Sunday Rusty and I started out early (8:45 am) for a hike. We headed up Wan Chai Gap Road to the beginning of Stage 3 of the Hong Kong trail. Wan Chai Gap Road is not a road, but actually a paved trail that is exceptionally steep. You honestly have to lean back as you’re walking down which can also be more difficult than going up particularly if you have bad knees. The first time I went up I had to stop several times. This time I only needed one stop, but then it started. The cough. That dry hack that comes from allergies which can only mean one thing...allergic asthma. I thought those days were over. I didn’t even bring an inhaler to Hong Kong.

But up and over the mountain we went along Aberdeen Reservoir Road to Black’s Link then back to Stubb’s Road. I only had one other coughing spell and my legs were definitely feeling strong. The only problem was the air. When we reached some spectacular spots with views of the south side I could hardly even make out Lantua or Lamma Islands. Everything looked milky and fuzzy. We were hiking in a haze that hung over the entire island.

I’m praying a strong wind will come blow this away although the newspaper says it should last several more days. The pollution level has been registering at Very High and the young, elderly and those with health problems are told to stay indoors. Thank goodness I don’t fall into any of those categories, yet today I will use the treadmill downstairs in the gym instead of running on our lovely Bowen Road. I’ll give my lungs a break.

Ships Ahoy!

I signed up to work at Fenwick Pier several weeks ago. The AWA helps the Servicemen’s Guides Association staff an information booth that provides assistance to US fleet ships when they are in Hong Kong. The volunteers are there to answer questions the service men and women may have when they arrive in this wonderful, but large exotic city.

When I agreed to work I had no idea what type of vessel would be arriving. There were rumors that the carrier USS Carl Vinson would be here and I actually thought that was the ship we would be assisting. My American friends were abuzz thinking we could be helping the carrier that had dumped Bin Laden’s body. Then the South China Morning Post reported that the USS Hampton was requesting permission to dock along with its tender the USS Frank Cable. This was big news as China had not allowed a nuclear submarine in its port since 2008. They were granted permission and were expected in last Saturday. 

I arrived at Fenwick Pier Fleet Arcade for my 3 - 6 pm shift, presented my Servicemen’s Guides Association card along with my Hong Kong ID, opened my purse for inspection and walked through a metal detector. I was in. I found my way to a large information booth and put on my name tag. I was ready for action. My friend Kate happened to be working the same session. We were both excited about the thought of doing something to help our service men and women.

Kate and I were given a short briefing about what and where things were located in the arcade such as money changing, laundry, post office and internet. We were shown a Rolodex for quick answers to obscure questions and a computer for extremely slow answers to other questions. The rest we pull out of our own little brains. Now the funny part about this is that Kate and I have lived here only a few months. Both of us moved to Hong Kong in January, yet we do have something going for us. We’re adventurers. We find things we’re interested in and then go explore. Plus Kate lives in Kowloon and I live on the island so together we had the area covered geographically. We actually do know quite a bit. 

Unfortunately, although we had arrived ready to work the ship had not, therefore Kate and I would be greeting the initial onslaught of sailors. Eventually a group of servicemen called SLGs arrived. They are the Ship’s Liaison Group. Their purpose is watch over the sailors and make sure they follow the rules. They’re sort of the principals of the ship. I spent a good deal of time asking them questions about their jobs and lives while we waited for the water taxis of sailors.

And eventually they came. Men and quite a few women, many young though some much older, a few who had been to Hong Kong previously, yet most wide eyed and anxious to see the city. They were looking for bars, restaurants and hotels. We gave directions along with maps, city guides and cards with the MTR routes printed on one side and a map to Fenwick Pier plus the address written in Chinese on the other. We handed out free Girl Scout cookies (I have no idea where they came from), candy and dragon pins. We also dispensed our motherly advice: stay with your buddies; be careful in bars in Wan Chai; the meter in the taxi is for all of you and don’t pay more than what’s on it; and most importantly have fun, but use your head.

Some of the sailors really pulled on my heartstrings. Especially the young ones with glasses and peach fuzz who looked like they should be at prom not out to sea, the guys so excited to get to computers so they could Skype with their kids and the husbands meeting their wives for some shore time together. There were several instances when I talked to young men who reminded me of my own boys. I tried to give them the same attention and concern I would give to my sons. 

Kate and I extended our work session until 7 pm since more sailors kept arriving. As we headed out for the evening the two of us were bubbling about how much fun we had. This wasn’t work it was too enjoyable. And the best part? Knowing that we were going back to do more shifts later in the week. 

Big Buddha photos

Big Buddha

For some unknown reason after being in Hong Kong for three months I had still not visited the Big Buddha. The Giant Tian Tan Buddha (affectionately known in HK as Big Buddha) is listed as one of the top ten things to see in Hong Kong by most travel guide books. I almost felt guilty for not making the trek there so I recruited my friend Kate to accompany me on this outing.

We met up at the MTR for our ride to Tung Chung which is at the end of the orange line. From there we walked to the cable cars which would take us straight to Ngong Ping on Lantua island where the Buddha sits. I mean this literally. The Big Buddha is the largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha in the world. He weighs more than 250 tons and is 30m. (98ft) tall.

The day was relatively clear for Hong Kong standards so the view from the cable car provided a nice picture of Lantua island and many others in the distance. The 5.7 km (3 ½ mile) cable car ride takes about 25 minutes which gives you ample opportunity for picture taking. As you approach Ngong Ping the sight of the Big Buddha sitting some 738m (2,421ft) above the island is striking. He is a rather serene, yet majestic figure dominating the island plateau. I was mentally preparing myself for a quiet and peaceful day.

As we disembarked the cable car I was struck by the fact that we had to walk through a gift shop to begin our visit. This isn’t very Buddhist like I thought. Big Buddha key chains, umbrellas and t-shirts were displayed. They even had photos of us that they had taken as we boarded the cable car! (It’s amazing what technology can do in 25 minutes.) This was feeling rather like an amusement park.

We made it through the shop and then it hit us. This wasn’t Disneyland. This was Buddhaland. We had stepped out into a perfectly darling Chinese village full of shops and restaurants. As we strolled along I couldn’t help but notice how everything was exactly that - too perfect. White buildings with green tile roofs and vibrant red and blue trim. Nothing is this clean and organized in Hong Kong. There were even some cute little cartoon like figures (not sure what they were) that you could take your picture with. We were surprised they didn’t charge for it.

I must admit that we did stop at a wonderful shop called the Chopstick Gallery which had hundreds of lovely sets of chopsticks for sale. Since chopsticks have become a regular part of our eating habits we couldn’t help but be taken by the beauty of the sets: some carved, some with silver or mother of pearl tops, some even made from colored pencils. We wandered through admiring them until we each found a set to be used for a special gift. Yes, we had succumbed to Buddhaland.

A wide path lined with warriors each representing one of the signs of the Chinese New Year symbols took us to the foot of the Buddha. My warrior, year of the boar, was very fierce looking. I wasn’t sure what was worse being born in the year of the pig or this scary guy.

The 260 steps leading up to the Buddha were lined with people making their way slowly to the top. Kate and I worked our way up thankful that we had gone on a weekday. I can’t even imagine what Sunday is like. The view of the countryside from the base of the Buddha is wonderful and the other bronze deities displayed are truly beautiful.

After our descent we headed back through Buddhaland and decided that maybe we had seen enough. We didn’t even stop for lunch. Somehow I thought the menu would include tofu Buddha burgers, enlightenment entrees and deity desserts. This just didn’t feel right.

We took the more expensive crystal cable car back to Tung Chung. The crystal cable car is nothing more than one with a glass bottom. Does seeing through the floor of the cable car make it more appealing and/or exciting? Not really. It’s ironic that Hong Kong Disneyland is also on Lantua island. In my mind “the happiest place on earth” never should include a big Buddha.

Guilin Part 2 photos

Guilin Part 2

I awoke Saturday morning to a misty fog both out of doors and in my head. The coffee machine in the restaurant of our resort had broken and I was without caffeine. After a long day yesterday this was not the way to start off. We boarded our bus in the drizzle and loaded our suitcases and overnight bags. We were required to bring other bags for our stay that evening as we would be heading to Longsheng Rice Terraces 1,000 meters above sea level. Our bus would drop us off at the bottom and we would hike up to the lodge.

As we drove through the mountains the rain subsided although it never did clear. This area gets lots of rain - 192 cm per month! I was thankful it would be dry even if very humid. We stopped to transfer from our tour bus to a local bus and were quickly greeted by minority women known as Yao. Longsheng is made up of four ethnic minorities: Zhuang, Miao, Dong and Yao. Within those minorities are other groups such as the red skirt, black skirt, long skirt and short skirt. It was difficult to tell who was what. When seeing a woman with a short red skirt was she red skirt or short skirt? Only our guide Peter could figure it out.

The Yao women were very persistent and being typical tourists we could not resist purchasing scarves and embroidered items. Yao women cut there hair only once in their lifetime at the age of sixteen. That means a young girl has become a woman and it is time to marry. After marriage the Yao women tie their hair in a bun in the center of their head close to the top of their forehead. This makes it clear to all that the woman is spoken for. Their hair can only be taken down for their husbands to see.

On the local bus we wove our way through the mountainside twisting and turning our way to the next stop. Once there I grabbed my backpack and stepped off the bus to Zhuang people with large baskets tied to their backs. They wanted to carry our bags up to the lodge. I was conflicted. I was more than happy to pay them. Their sources of income are few. Yet the basket carriers were old! I mean elderly. How could I expect someone 20 years my senior to carry a basket full of overnight bags and backpacks? Then I realized this was my issue not theirs. They were strong and happy to make the money. I gave them my backpack and proceeded up the muddy trail. 

Thank goodness there were steps, although over 700 of them, but it made it easier to walk through the village up to the top. The village is built on the slopes of the rice terraces. The path up is narrow and sometimes steep. The homes and shops often seem to hang by a thread to the sides of the mountain. Sedan chairs carried by four men carted people to the top, women sat weaving shoes, boys led donkeys laden with supplies and children played with toys next to their mothers selling goods. 

We climbed slowly to the lodge finding it hard not to stop too frequently for photos and to look at the wares being sold along the way. Most of the merchants were Zhuang and although they did not speak English they were very friendly. The tourists of course bring revenue that is badly needed so they were happy to see us trudging along. 

Our lodge was amazing with views overlooking the rice terraces. Each room had a different theme. Meike and I were in the Batik room with beautiful framed batiks and blue ginger pots. The walls and ceiling were made out of woven grasses and bamboo. Each guest was given slippers to wear while indoors. We hurried through lunch to get back outside.

As we walked to the top of the mountain we were in awe. Being in the center of Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces was breathtaking. The terraces coil around the mountainsides and cover an area of 66 square kilometers (16,000 acres). The layers of green spread out around us. This was truly one of the most spectacular things I had ever laid eyes on.

Everyone split off into small groups to explore. I can’t imagine how many photographs were actually taken that day. It seemed every time you saw something amazing you happened upon something else. 

During our hike back down through the village we encountered several men butchering a hog. Of course this happens, but it took place right next to the main trail with little children playing along side them. We literally had to step over a puddle of blood to get by. And of course one of the items for dinner that night was pork. I suppose it was very fresh!

Back up at the lodge we randomly gathered for cocktails on the balcony overlooking the terraces. As night quickly fell I realized these people were no longer strangers they were friends. I was certainly blessed to be on this journey with them.

The next morning I learned it had stormed overnight although I must confess I didn’t hear a thing. I was lucky enough to have several cups of real coffee before heading down the mountain. Although we left early the Zhuang came to retrieve our bags and haul them down for us. The shops were shut tight. Chickens and rats scurried about. A dense fog hung around us. Life on Dragon’s Backbone had not yet begun. Maybe this was the way to leave while everything was quiet. We could slip away before we had a chance to want to stay.

The several hour ride back to Guilin went quickly even with a bus change. In Guilin we stopped at Reed Flute Cave. The cave received its name from the reeds growing outside of it which were used to make flutes. I must admit that after visiting Carlsbad Caverns in New Mexico no cave has ever come close to its grandeur in my estimation. In typical Chinese fashion colored lights illuminated the stalactites and stalagmites. The Chinese love their colored lights! This was a very anticlimactic way to end the trip. I suppose this actually made it easier to leave.

We had more Chinese food in Guilin before we headed to the airport. I thoroughly enjoy Chinese food, but the huge amount of sodium I had consumed the past few days was making me blow up like a puffer fish. My feet and ankles were swollen and others commented about their hands and even legs. It was time to get back to Hong Kong and a salad.

We luckily landed in Hong Kong Sunday evening right after a storm had blown through. Having a Hong Kong identity card made coming into the country nothing more than slipping my card into a machine and pressing my thumb on a scanner for identification. No passport control, no long lines. We could do that in the states, but of course the ACLU would fuss. Why not make it voluntary I thought? Well it doesn’t matter. I was back to my Hong Kong life and home. 

Guilin Part 1 photos

Guilin Part 1

Although in Kong Kong only a few months my wanderlust took me on a trip to southern China. I had signed up for an AWA Asian tour to  Guilin, Yangshuo and Longsheng. My knowledge of that part of China was scant with only the terms beautiful and gorgeous in my vocabulary of the area. 

Last Thursday I experienced the much praised Airport Express for the first time. It begins in Central where you can check your luggage, get your boarding pass and board a train that takes you directly to the airport. The cost is right, $100HK (about $12US), and the convenience is remarkable. This is definitely the way to go.

I was with several other ladies who I had met only briefly at our pre-departure meeting a few weeks prior. And I had not even met my roommate yet! How strange to travel with strangers, but my thirst for seeing China far outweighed my nervousness about being with others I did not know for 4 days. We were running rather late and did the walk/run to the gate. There I met Meike my Belgian roommate who was equally beautiful and sweet. I immediately began to relax.

Our hour flight took us straight to Guilin. As we approached the landing strip I was amazed how dark it was. Even the runway lights seemed dim. What a surprise I would have after we landed! 

Passport control was easy and quick and we were promptly met by our guide Peter. The 24 of us walked out of the terminal into a riot of color. Fake palm trees, complete with coconuts, lined the front of the car-park each glowing a different color. We chuckled amongst ourselves as no one quite expected this greeting. The forty minute drive to our hotel proved equally absurd. The buildings were outlined with colored LED lights, some pulsing or strobing, which gave the appearance of a mini-Las Vegas. This was not the quaint Chinese town that I had anticipated.

What I did not know is that Guilin is a pre-fecture level city (below a province and above a county) in the province of Guangxi. The city itself has over 500,000 people. The total geographic area of Guilin covers over 28,000 sq. kilometers or 10,000 miles. 

After we checked into our rooms a few of the more adventurous ladies took off for the Night Market. I’m always amazed how markets are abuzz with activity and commerce late into the night in China. We strolled along the streets and stalls getting acquainted with each other and the city of Guilin. 

Friday morning we awoke early for a quick breakfast and then into the bus for a incredibly full day that we were all greatly anticipating. Our first stop was a boat ride on the very famous Li River. Even if you have never heard of it you have no doubt seen paintings of the scenery. The most famous view is on the 20 Yuan bill. 

We boarded our boat and were immediately offered tea as we prepared for our 3 hour journey down the river. It wasn’t long before most of us were on the upper deck taking photographs and marveling at the karst mountains. Karst mountains are jagged peaks sticking out of the earth that seem rather other-worldly particularly when covered in mist and fog as they were that day. For Star Wars fans you might remember them from Episode III: Revenge of the Sith. The Li River was also called one of the 10 Water Wonders of the World by National Geographic. What a reputation!

Yes, it did live up to my expectations. I was expecting to be “wowed” and I was. The natural landscape alone is exquisite, but watching life on the river was fascinating: women washing clothes, men fishing from bamboo rafts, water buffalo grazing and even a young couple getting married the bride stunning her long white dress. I stood for hours, sometimes in the mist, absorbing the feel and recording the sights in my camera and my mind. 

Eventually we were called below for a Chinese lunch before disembarking onto a small dinghy with tiny wooden chairs (the kind we had in kindergarten) for a ride to the shore of Xingping. A short walk through town gave us time to take photos of the villagers with their stores selling batiks, embroidered shoes and wooden carvings. We encountered a funeral taking place that was both magical and solemn. 

At the end of our walk were the bikes that would take us on the next part of our journey. As I had strongly suspected the bright green bikes with baskets in the back for our day-packs were “no speeds”. I wasn’t worried since we were only cycling 20 kilometers. We headed out of town and I quickly hurried to the front of the group. I wanted to be able to ask Peter about the sights we were passing. The orchards of persimmons and oranges, the rice paddies with water buffalo and the tombs still with decorations after the recent Ching Ming Festival (Grave Sweeping Festival) made for many questions. The most incredible part of the ride was smelling the orange blossoms. The sweet fragrance enveloped us as we rode down the dusty road with buses of locals buzzing past sometimes precariously close. We rode past villagers leading oxen and carrying fruits and vegetables. We rode through pot holes that were so big you couldn’t get around them. I longed for my bike shorts sitting in my dresser drawer in Webster Groves. 

We arrived in Fuli and walked around the town known for its fan making. The various stages of which were evident as the process was seen drying right outside the doors of the many small shops and homes. I couldn’t stop taking photos of the red, green, yellow and white fan layers. I encountered a woman finishing a fan and was able to photograph her with her permission. She seemed rather pleased with the attention and I loved watching her.

We finally boarded our bus to our next night’s lodging in Yangshou. I was pleasantly surprised as we arrived at a beautiful resort nestled along the Lijiang River. After a quick shower to wash away the layer of sweat and dust we headed into town for dinner and to see the cultural show “Impression Liu Sanjie”. The show takes place outdoors, literally on the river, with the Snow Lion Hill as the backdrop. Over 500 singers and dancers in ethnic costumes perform this show about love. Many of the performers are gliding across the water on rafts while carrying torches. Of course we had no idea what was being sung, but the music and scenery was stunningly beautiful. The show was choreographed by Zhang Yimo the same artist who choreographed the opening ceremony for the Beijing Olympics. This was equally impressive especially since we were sitting on rattan chairs with 3,000 other people in the mist (sometimes heavy) watching color and light dance across the river and karst mountains. 

We shed the plastic rain ponchos that were handed out as we entered the show and boarded our bus back to the lodge for a much needed night’s sleep. I was not sure if I could sleep after the overload of sights, sounds and smells of the day, but I do believe I had read only one page of my book before I was sound asleep. 

From Bored To Board

First let me begin by saying I have never been bored in Hong Kong. It’s impossible. Hong offers everything from fine dining overlooking the lights of Victoria Harbour to hiking on one of the numerous islands in the South China Sea. In between there are markets to explore and temples to visit. On a down day you can take a book to the park and read while enjoying the sub-tropical sights and sounds. 

Yet before I arrived in Hong Kong I was worried that I might be bored. Giving up my career at the Chamber of Commerce, board positions with various groups, Rotary activities and of course family and friends I could not imagine there would be enough to occupy not only my life, but also my mind. How wrong I was! 

My first week in Hong Kong I joined the AWA, American Women's Association. I was intrigued and impressed by the mission statement of the AWA. “A volunteer organization of international women supporting Hong Kong charities and schools through community service and monetary grants, while providing educational and social activities for members.” This is a group that has a heart and a mind I thought. 

Two weeks to the day of my arrival I began my Foon Ying group which is a three session program for new members. And that is where my life in Hong Kong really started. I met women like myself who had given up so much to follow their husbands here. We are called trailing spouses although the name disgusts me. I am certainly not following anyone. I am walking hand in hand, side by side with Rusty as we experience this new journey in our lives. 

And while I am sauntering through this all the AWA has been there to help guide me. I have taken a Cantonese class, visited a porcelain factory and toured Cheung Chau island. The AWA friends I have made and the knowledge they have shared has made the transition into ex-pat life very manageable. I have learned where to buy a rubber bath mat, get my clothes altered and find allergy medicine. One of my friends even brought me special vitamins from the US that I can’t find here. 

Four weeks in I attended the annual Charity Fashion Show and Auction. The AWA contributes thousands of dollars to local charities each year. The charities are vetted by one of our committees and tend to help the elderly, women and children. Last year we donated $800,000HK to help those in need. The models at the fashion show were our very own members. It was a great evening of glam, glitz and giggles galore. AWA ladies know how to have fun with a purpose.

So it is no wonder that I was thrilled, yet surprised when six weeks after arriving I was asked to be interviewed for the AWA board. It seems my friends had nominated me for several positions. I approached the interview with some degree of trepidation. I barely have my feet wet what could I possibly offer? They weren’t looking for knowledge of Hong Kong I found out, but knowledge of non-profits and organizations. That I have.

Today, ten weeks into my ex-pat life, I was elected as the Vice President of Membership for the American Women’s Association Board of Directors. We currently have 900 members. My goal of course is 1,000 within the next year. The position is eerily similar to my chamber job. Except now I can inform and recruit, yet not get paid for it. On the other hand this job won’t keep me up at night and I’ll still have time to continue traveling the road of exploration in Hong Kong. Me bored? You’ve got to be kidding.

I Think We're Not In Hong Kong Any More Dorothy!

The New Territories is one of the three areas that comprise Hong Kong with Hong Kong island and Kowloon being the others. NT is basically all of the land north of Kowloon and south of the mainland China border. My friend Susan and I had heard about an incredible brass factory located in Kam Tin, NT and decided that we would make the journey on Sunday.

We started on the MTR red line and switched to the purple line at Mei Foo. We exited at Kam Sheung Road. Exit B took us outside to what appeared to be a Chinese flea market. Stall after stall lined the carpark in front of the station. We resisted the urge to explore promising each other we could do that after we visited our intended destination.

After crossing a bridge and following a heavily used pedestrian and bicycle path we came to Kam Sheung Road. We turned right and just a few blocks down on the left was Sum Ngai Brass Ware. We entered what appeared to be a compound made up of many small buildings. 

I had checked the Sum Ngai website and had seen many lovely photos of brass ware, porcelain and cloisonne. The variety and prices were exceptional and what we found was what I had viewed, but of course things aren’t always what they appear to be on a website. Everything was well made and interesting while also covered in layers of dust. We had to rub the dust off to really get a sense of color for the porcelain items. I spotted an unusual piece in the very back of some rather large lamps. I’ve learned to look up and behind in HK to find the unique pieces that are hidden away. Susan helped me move numerous pottery lamps to reach an incredible golden brown dragon lamp covered in dust. The piece was gorgeous even if the plug did have rust on it. 

The owner found us browsing and welcomed us very warmly. Her English was exceptional with a slight British accent. She offered to replace the plug on my dragon lamp while we continued our search. I had my eye on several items, but once again how would I get them home? We were in the New Territories - not on the island and not in Kowloon. I was definitely going to lug the beautiful dragon lamp especially since it was the only one. But there is a limit to what I am capable of carrying although it is a known fact that great bargains can do amazing things to a woman’s strength. 

With our lamps boxed sturdily we asked the owner if she could direct us to a place for lunch. We were hot, sweaty and more than a little thirsty. Well she did more than direct us she took us! We followed her down a dirt road for several minutes past purple morning glories blooming on a broken rusty fence, an old woman sitting idly on a stool and a tiny shop selling pet supplies. The whole while she was telling us about Kam Tin and how the British had an air force base there for many years. Of course, that explained the accent. 

We finally came to a real road and she waltzed us into what looked like a Chinese diner where not one person spoke English. She made sure we were seated and then disappeared before we could thank her. Luckily the menu was written in both Chinese and English. We pointed to our choices and I grabbed my cup of tea. Susan stopped me before I could chug it down. Oh yes, we can’t drink the water. So what would I drink? I haven’t had a soda in about four years and can’t bear the taste anymore. Well it’s amazing how good a Fanta orange tastes when you’re thirsty. Our lunch was surprisingly good and cost all of $35 HK (about $4.50 US). I suppose diner food is great no matter where you are. 

Rested and refueled we headed back to the train. Even with the load of our packages we couldn’t resist browsing the flea market. It was just like any you would find in the US. Everything from purses to light bulbs to handmade soaps. There was junk and there were treasures it just depended on your perspective. We both ended up buying nightlights to put in the hall when we had overnight guests. Where else could we find nightlights with HK plugs? Definitely treasures!

By this time we were getting hot and tired and were definitely dirty. I could feel the layer of dust on my body and was hoping I didn’t smell as ripe as many others around us. Yes, with the heat comes the smells and this is just April. We hurried to find seats on the MTR and collapsed. Although Kam Tin is only a 30 minute train ride from Hong Kong island it certainly felt like miles away to us. 

Are Fish Pets Since You Can't Pet Them?

I have been wanting to get a pet and decided goldfish would be perfect. It is thought that goldfish create wonderful feng shui in a home. Feng shui is the ancient Chinese belief that the items in your home, and how they are placed, can create positive energy and good fortune. Circular aquariums are said to best and should be placed in the eastern portion of your house. The number of fish is also important such as eight for good luck (odd numbers are definitely bad), orange fish bring wealth (red fish represent fire which definitely does not mix with water) and one lone black fish in an aquarium will absorb all of the negative energy in the home (that poor guy has a huge job).

So today I went to the Goldfish Market in Mong Kok. Yes, there is actually a street in Kowloon that sells fish and a few other assorted pets. Both sides of Tung Choi Street are lined with stalls and shops selling every imaginable color and size of fish. I saw tank after tank of orange, black, white, blue and yellow swirls. Tiny little fish the size of my fingernail swam next to tanks with fish as large as my hand. Hundreds of plastic bags of fish, hung outside of stalls, shimmered in the light. 

And the fish are only a portion of the aquarium. Plants, both real and plastic, can be purchased to enhance the look of the tank along with colored gravel, rocks and aquarium decorations. There was everything from fake coral to bridges to sunken treasure to castles. My favorite decorations were the little pagodas and a tiny little table with two Chinese men drinking tea. 

Scattered throughout the street were stores with pets such as cats, dogs and guinea pigs. Why someone would purchase a cat is beyond me when there are wild cats roaming all over HK island. Dwarf rabbits, big rabbits and rabbits with floppy ears sat looking for homes. Turtles were in abundance. We even saw one over a foot long that was being hand fed lettuce. A cooler of minute frogs jiggled with life next to a box of tiny albino frogs. Both were very high on the creepy scale.

And of course in the middle of this all the street was being torn up and a jack hammer was pounding away. Oh, so Hong Kong! How would I ever make a choice? I walked up one side of the street and down the other hoping something would strike me. I’m not sure that’s entirely possible with fish. When there’s thousands to choose from can a few really scream “Here we are. Pick us.”? 

I finally decided on a bag of fish. I realize that’s sort of like going to the market and buying a bag of mixed salad greens. Very safe and predictable, yet rather boring unless you add some things to it. Then I bought a small plant and nothing else. The pot I had purchased weeks earlier is so beautiful that I believe that is enough. I’m going for less is more in the ways of the fish world. 

I brought my fish home on the MTR then in a taxi. I didn’t think bouncing them up the 402 steps to our apartment would make them too happy. The eight little buddies (with one black) seemed confused by their new home. Every time I check on them they swim to the bottom of the pot. But I have what I wanted - a pet or rather pets. Although I’m not really sure if fish count as pets since you can’t pet them. It’s sort of like the tree falling in the forest thing isn’t it? 

Hiking on Lantau Island

Yesterday we awoke early, filled a small backpack and headed to Pier 6 for the 8:30 am ferry to Lantau Island. We wanted to arrive before the other day trippers and have a chance to do some real hiking. Rusty has been wanting to do some of the more strenuous trails and Lantau is a great place to start.

The ordinary ferry from Central Pier to Lantau Island takes about one hour. I sat back and watched the morning unfold out my window. I’m still amazed at the boat traffic in Victoria Harbour. It’s a superhighway for ships, boats and other seaworthy vessels which seem to be going in every direction and at every speed. How they all navigate around each other is beyond me, but it definitely feels safer than the traffic in rush hour Hong Kong.

Before our voyage ended I went downstairs to use the restroom. I saw quite a few passengers sprawled out across several seats sleeping soundly. Then I also noticed something else stretched out. Two pigs on pallets, gutted from end to end, were laying amongst the retiring passengers. I actually laughed out loud and couldn’t wait to get upstairs to share my latest “Wait til you see this!” with Rusty. Already I knew this would prove to be an interesting day.

We landed at Mui Wo on Lantau Island and took off for parts unknown. I say this literally because we had forgotten to bring a map or at least some written directions of trails on the island. After an hour of exploring the village of Mui Wo we found a trail and decided this was it. Basically this was “it” because it was what we found. It was not necessarily what we were looking for. 

At this point neither of us really cared. We figured we would hike until we had had enough and could still make it back. At the very beginning we passed dozens of bright pink, yellow, orange and red flags lining the road. I’m not sure why they were there, but they looked very festive. Then we passed several benches made out of very thick rock with stone roofs. I swear they looked like they were straight out of the Flintstones. I was waiting for Fred to come strolling along, but instead saw a gentleman lugging a wagon full of groceries and many bottles of wine. Maybe we should follow him.

We passed Man Mo Temple (yes another one), the Silvermine cave and waterfall and just kept heading up. Here we go again I thought. We climbed and climbed and climbed. Thank goodness for the wild orange and pink lantana, white daisies and purple azaleas. The beautiful foliage kept my mind off of our ascent. The temperature was about 75F and in the shade it was perfect, but in the sun we were sweating. 

When we finally reached the top of one hill, we stopped for water and to admire the view. Yes, we really had hiked a long way. The ocean and Mui Wo were far in the distance. This was the hike Rusty had longed for. So onward and upward we went. 

Black butterflies with spots of blue, white or yellow flitted by. At one point we passed a bush humming very loudly with bees. I didn’t stop to see the bush or the bees since I tend to react rather severely to bee stings. Just the noise level alone told us to keep moving.

We finally reached a point that we thought was far enough. We both had the strength to keep going, but we still had to go back down. As we stood there eating our granola bars I saw love appear right before my very eyes. No, I did not have heat stroke! Coming up the hill was an elderly Chinese couple. She was bent over and walking with a cane. He was carrying an umbrella to shade her. I wanted to take a photo, but also didn’t want to spoil the moment. I am content with the memory.

With that we headed back to Mui Wo. After what seemed like such an easy descent we walked along the road and headed to a seaside outdoor restaurant. We passed several women riding their bicycles while holding umbrellas over their heads. How very comical, yet cute.

After a delicious Chinese lunch and a couple of Blue Girl beers we walked back to the pier. (Rusty couldn’t believe I would actually order pork after seeing Porky and his brother on the ferry.) We were just in time to catch the fast ferry to Hong Kong. The rocking of the boat, the hiking, the sun, the food and the beer I was asleep before we hit open water. I woke up 30 minutes later as the ferry slowed to enter Pier 6. Another island, another wonderful day!

Chi Lin Nunnery and Nan Lian Garden

When I hear the word nunnery my Catholic upbringing conjures up images of kind women in black and white habits - nuns. In China, nunnery takes on another meaning. This week my friend Susan and I visited the Chi Lin Nunnery and Nan Lian Garden. It was a day of serenity and beauty.

The Chi Lin Nunnery is located in Kowloon a short walk from the Diamond Hill MTR station. As we walked up the street I was excited and curious to visit this Buddhist nunnery. Chi Lin is styled after the architecture of the Tang Dynasty. The original buildings were built in the 1930s and totally rebuilt in 1998. Each building is made of wood, but without the use of a single nail. The pieces fit together somewhat like a jigsaw puzzle. The Chinese believe that when wood is used to make a building its life continues to fill the structure. I can definitely tell you there is wonderful life in these buildings.

Upon entering the first courtyard we saw four large ponds filled with blooming lotus flowers that symbolize purity. Each pond has dragons head water spouts that are just beautiful. In Chinese mythology dragons control rainfall so this is very appropriate. Bonsai trees and Buddhist philosophies surround the edges of the courtyard. One of my favorite sayings is, “It is better to travel well than to arrive.”

Next we entered the Hall of Celestial Kings that has a large golden statue of the seated Buddha surrounded by other deities. The Main Hall contains the Sakyumani Buddha and disciples. Vases of flowers and bowls of fruit are placed on the altars in front of these. Throughout our visit chanting prayers could be heard. The beauty and peacefulness of the nunnery kept our words to a limit as we took it all in. This is a place you experience and enjoy. 

A bridge over the street connects Nan Lian Garden to the nunnery. The Garden is a Tang style garden with a one way circular route that is meant to bring peace and harmony. Walking across the bridge we saw the Perfection Pavilion and Lotus Pond. The Pavilion is a gold leaf covered tower with two bright orange bridges. The pond is filled with giant koi that are by far and away the largest both of us had ever seen. 

We stopped to have lunch at the vegetarian restaurant, Long Men Lou, located within the garden. The restaurant is built into the side of a hill that has a waterfall flowing over a large glass wall which makes up one side of the building. It’s lovely to watch the water while eating and looking out upon the garden. We ordered two dishes - something with avocados and tomatoes and another with oyster mushrooms and rice. I’m not quite sure what either was, but both were excellent. When examining the menu we did see Yellow Funghi and Bamboo Pith Soup, but after a few chuckles we decided we just weren’t that brave. We were served some type of pumpkin and carrot soup (we think) which was very tasty and light. 

After lunch we continued along the path and came to a building called Xiang Hui Huan (meaning a house embracing a sea of fragrance) that housed a special exhibition of bamboo carvings by Cheung Pak Yue. The carvings were absolutely exquisite and contained bamboo hanging screens, armrests, incense burners, tea canisters and, my favorite, birdcages. Each piece was exceptional in its detail and depth. I feel so blessed that we were able to see this exhibit before it closes at the end of April. 

Back on the path we enjoyed the Buddha pines, bonsais, banyans and numerous other shrubs and flowers. Relaxing Chinese music was piped in from hidden speakers. You truly do feel the tranquility that is meant to be conveyed while in the garden although you only need to look to the east or west to see high rises jutting up around you. Hong Kong is no doubt the city of contrasts. I see it time and time again and it never does cease to amaze me. 

We left the garden feeling calm and relaxed, walked down the street to the MTR and joined the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong. Yes indeed the city of contrasts.