The New Territories is one of the three areas that comprise Hong Kong with Hong Kong island and Kowloon being the others. NT is basically all of the land north of Kowloon and south of the mainland China border. My friend Susan and I had heard about an incredible brass factory located in Kam Tin, NT and decided that we would make the journey on Sunday.
We started on the MTR red line and switched to the purple line at Mei Foo. We exited at Kam Sheung Road. Exit B took us outside to what appeared to be a Chinese flea market. Stall after stall lined the carpark in front of the station. We resisted the urge to explore promising each other we could do that after we visited our intended destination.
After crossing a bridge and following a heavily used pedestrian and bicycle path we came to Kam Sheung Road. We turned right and just a few blocks down on the left was Sum Ngai Brass Ware. We entered what appeared to be a compound made up of many small buildings.
I had checked the Sum Ngai website and had seen many lovely photos of brass ware, porcelain and cloisonne. The variety and prices were exceptional and what we found was what I had viewed, but of course things aren’t always what they appear to be on a website. Everything was well made and interesting while also covered in layers of dust. We had to rub the dust off to really get a sense of color for the porcelain items. I spotted an unusual piece in the very back of some rather large lamps. I’ve learned to look up and behind in HK to find the unique pieces that are hidden away. Susan helped me move numerous pottery lamps to reach an incredible golden brown dragon lamp covered in dust. The piece was gorgeous even if the plug did have rust on it.
The owner found us browsing and welcomed us very warmly. Her English was exceptional with a slight British accent. She offered to replace the plug on my dragon lamp while we continued our search. I had my eye on several items, but once again how would I get them home? We were in the New Territories - not on the island and not in Kowloon. I was definitely going to lug the beautiful dragon lamp especially since it was the only one. But there is a limit to what I am capable of carrying although it is a known fact that great bargains can do amazing things to a woman’s strength.
With our lamps boxed sturdily we asked the owner if she could direct us to a place for lunch. We were hot, sweaty and more than a little thirsty. Well she did more than direct us she took us! We followed her down a dirt road for several minutes past purple morning glories blooming on a broken rusty fence, an old woman sitting idly on a stool and a tiny shop selling pet supplies. The whole while she was telling us about Kam Tin and how the British had an air force base there for many years. Of course, that explained the accent.
We finally came to a real road and she waltzed us into what looked like a Chinese diner where not one person spoke English. She made sure we were seated and then disappeared before we could thank her. Luckily the menu was written in both Chinese and English. We pointed to our choices and I grabbed my cup of tea. Susan stopped me before I could chug it down. Oh yes, we can’t drink the water. So what would I drink? I haven’t had a soda in about four years and can’t bear the taste anymore. Well it’s amazing how good a Fanta orange tastes when you’re thirsty. Our lunch was surprisingly good and cost all of $35 HK (about $4.50 US). I suppose diner food is great no matter where you are.
Rested and refueled we headed back to the train. Even with the load of our packages we couldn’t resist browsing the flea market. It was just like any you would find in the US. Everything from purses to light bulbs to handmade soaps. There was junk and there were treasures it just depended on your perspective. We both ended up buying nightlights to put in the hall when we had overnight guests. Where else could we find nightlights with HK plugs? Definitely treasures!
By this time we were getting hot and tired and were definitely dirty. I could feel the layer of dust on my body and was hoping I didn’t smell as ripe as many others around us. Yes, with the heat comes the smells and this is just April. We hurried to find seats on the MTR and collapsed. Although Kam Tin is only a 30 minute train ride from Hong Kong island it certainly felt like miles away to us.
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