Guilin Part 1

Although in Kong Kong only a few months my wanderlust took me on a trip to southern China. I had signed up for an AWA Asian tour to  Guilin, Yangshuo and Longsheng. My knowledge of that part of China was scant with only the terms beautiful and gorgeous in my vocabulary of the area. 

Last Thursday I experienced the much praised Airport Express for the first time. It begins in Central where you can check your luggage, get your boarding pass and board a train that takes you directly to the airport. The cost is right, $100HK (about $12US), and the convenience is remarkable. This is definitely the way to go.

I was with several other ladies who I had met only briefly at our pre-departure meeting a few weeks prior. And I had not even met my roommate yet! How strange to travel with strangers, but my thirst for seeing China far outweighed my nervousness about being with others I did not know for 4 days. We were running rather late and did the walk/run to the gate. There I met Meike my Belgian roommate who was equally beautiful and sweet. I immediately began to relax.

Our hour flight took us straight to Guilin. As we approached the landing strip I was amazed how dark it was. Even the runway lights seemed dim. What a surprise I would have after we landed! 

Passport control was easy and quick and we were promptly met by our guide Peter. The 24 of us walked out of the terminal into a riot of color. Fake palm trees, complete with coconuts, lined the front of the car-park each glowing a different color. We chuckled amongst ourselves as no one quite expected this greeting. The forty minute drive to our hotel proved equally absurd. The buildings were outlined with colored LED lights, some pulsing or strobing, which gave the appearance of a mini-Las Vegas. This was not the quaint Chinese town that I had anticipated.

What I did not know is that Guilin is a pre-fecture level city (below a province and above a county) in the province of Guangxi. The city itself has over 500,000 people. The total geographic area of Guilin covers over 28,000 sq. kilometers or 10,000 miles. 

After we checked into our rooms a few of the more adventurous ladies took off for the Night Market. I’m always amazed how markets are abuzz with activity and commerce late into the night in China. We strolled along the streets and stalls getting acquainted with each other and the city of Guilin. 

Friday morning we awoke early for a quick breakfast and then into the bus for a incredibly full day that we were all greatly anticipating. Our first stop was a boat ride on the very famous Li River. Even if you have never heard of it you have no doubt seen paintings of the scenery. The most famous view is on the 20 Yuan bill. 

We boarded our boat and were immediately offered tea as we prepared for our 3 hour journey down the river. It wasn’t long before most of us were on the upper deck taking photographs and marveling at the karst mountains. Karst mountains are jagged peaks sticking out of the earth that seem rather other-worldly particularly when covered in mist and fog as they were that day. For Star Wars fans you might remember them from Episode III: Revenge of the Sith. The Li River was also called one of the 10 Water Wonders of the World by National Geographic. What a reputation!

Yes, it did live up to my expectations. I was expecting to be “wowed” and I was. The natural landscape alone is exquisite, but watching life on the river was fascinating: women washing clothes, men fishing from bamboo rafts, water buffalo grazing and even a young couple getting married the bride stunning her long white dress. I stood for hours, sometimes in the mist, absorbing the feel and recording the sights in my camera and my mind. 

Eventually we were called below for a Chinese lunch before disembarking onto a small dinghy with tiny wooden chairs (the kind we had in kindergarten) for a ride to the shore of Xingping. A short walk through town gave us time to take photos of the villagers with their stores selling batiks, embroidered shoes and wooden carvings. We encountered a funeral taking place that was both magical and solemn. 

At the end of our walk were the bikes that would take us on the next part of our journey. As I had strongly suspected the bright green bikes with baskets in the back for our day-packs were “no speeds”. I wasn’t worried since we were only cycling 20 kilometers. We headed out of town and I quickly hurried to the front of the group. I wanted to be able to ask Peter about the sights we were passing. The orchards of persimmons and oranges, the rice paddies with water buffalo and the tombs still with decorations after the recent Ching Ming Festival (Grave Sweeping Festival) made for many questions. The most incredible part of the ride was smelling the orange blossoms. The sweet fragrance enveloped us as we rode down the dusty road with buses of locals buzzing past sometimes precariously close. We rode past villagers leading oxen and carrying fruits and vegetables. We rode through pot holes that were so big you couldn’t get around them. I longed for my bike shorts sitting in my dresser drawer in Webster Groves. 

We arrived in Fuli and walked around the town known for its fan making. The various stages of which were evident as the process was seen drying right outside the doors of the many small shops and homes. I couldn’t stop taking photos of the red, green, yellow and white fan layers. I encountered a woman finishing a fan and was able to photograph her with her permission. She seemed rather pleased with the attention and I loved watching her.

We finally boarded our bus to our next night’s lodging in Yangshou. I was pleasantly surprised as we arrived at a beautiful resort nestled along the Lijiang River. After a quick shower to wash away the layer of sweat and dust we headed into town for dinner and to see the cultural show “Impression Liu Sanjie”. The show takes place outdoors, literally on the river, with the Snow Lion Hill as the backdrop. Over 500 singers and dancers in ethnic costumes perform this show about love. Many of the performers are gliding across the water on rafts while carrying torches. Of course we had no idea what was being sung, but the music and scenery was stunningly beautiful. The show was choreographed by Zhang Yimo the same artist who choreographed the opening ceremony for the Beijing Olympics. This was equally impressive especially since we were sitting on rattan chairs with 3,000 other people in the mist (sometimes heavy) watching color and light dance across the river and karst mountains. 

We shed the plastic rain ponchos that were handed out as we entered the show and boarded our bus back to the lodge for a much needed night’s sleep. I was not sure if I could sleep after the overload of sights, sounds and smells of the day, but I do believe I had read only one page of my book before I was sound asleep. 

From Bored To Board

First let me begin by saying I have never been bored in Hong Kong. It’s impossible. Hong offers everything from fine dining overlooking the lights of Victoria Harbour to hiking on one of the numerous islands in the South China Sea. In between there are markets to explore and temples to visit. On a down day you can take a book to the park and read while enjoying the sub-tropical sights and sounds. 

Yet before I arrived in Hong Kong I was worried that I might be bored. Giving up my career at the Chamber of Commerce, board positions with various groups, Rotary activities and of course family and friends I could not imagine there would be enough to occupy not only my life, but also my mind. How wrong I was! 

My first week in Hong Kong I joined the AWA, American Women's Association. I was intrigued and impressed by the mission statement of the AWA. “A volunteer organization of international women supporting Hong Kong charities and schools through community service and monetary grants, while providing educational and social activities for members.” This is a group that has a heart and a mind I thought. 

Two weeks to the day of my arrival I began my Foon Ying group which is a three session program for new members. And that is where my life in Hong Kong really started. I met women like myself who had given up so much to follow their husbands here. We are called trailing spouses although the name disgusts me. I am certainly not following anyone. I am walking hand in hand, side by side with Rusty as we experience this new journey in our lives. 

And while I am sauntering through this all the AWA has been there to help guide me. I have taken a Cantonese class, visited a porcelain factory and toured Cheung Chau island. The AWA friends I have made and the knowledge they have shared has made the transition into ex-pat life very manageable. I have learned where to buy a rubber bath mat, get my clothes altered and find allergy medicine. One of my friends even brought me special vitamins from the US that I can’t find here. 

Four weeks in I attended the annual Charity Fashion Show and Auction. The AWA contributes thousands of dollars to local charities each year. The charities are vetted by one of our committees and tend to help the elderly, women and children. Last year we donated $800,000HK to help those in need. The models at the fashion show were our very own members. It was a great evening of glam, glitz and giggles galore. AWA ladies know how to have fun with a purpose.

So it is no wonder that I was thrilled, yet surprised when six weeks after arriving I was asked to be interviewed for the AWA board. It seems my friends had nominated me for several positions. I approached the interview with some degree of trepidation. I barely have my feet wet what could I possibly offer? They weren’t looking for knowledge of Hong Kong I found out, but knowledge of non-profits and organizations. That I have.

Today, ten weeks into my ex-pat life, I was elected as the Vice President of Membership for the American Women’s Association Board of Directors. We currently have 900 members. My goal of course is 1,000 within the next year. The position is eerily similar to my chamber job. Except now I can inform and recruit, yet not get paid for it. On the other hand this job won’t keep me up at night and I’ll still have time to continue traveling the road of exploration in Hong Kong. Me bored? You’ve got to be kidding.

I Think We're Not In Hong Kong Any More Dorothy!

The New Territories is one of the three areas that comprise Hong Kong with Hong Kong island and Kowloon being the others. NT is basically all of the land north of Kowloon and south of the mainland China border. My friend Susan and I had heard about an incredible brass factory located in Kam Tin, NT and decided that we would make the journey on Sunday.

We started on the MTR red line and switched to the purple line at Mei Foo. We exited at Kam Sheung Road. Exit B took us outside to what appeared to be a Chinese flea market. Stall after stall lined the carpark in front of the station. We resisted the urge to explore promising each other we could do that after we visited our intended destination.

After crossing a bridge and following a heavily used pedestrian and bicycle path we came to Kam Sheung Road. We turned right and just a few blocks down on the left was Sum Ngai Brass Ware. We entered what appeared to be a compound made up of many small buildings. 

I had checked the Sum Ngai website and had seen many lovely photos of brass ware, porcelain and cloisonne. The variety and prices were exceptional and what we found was what I had viewed, but of course things aren’t always what they appear to be on a website. Everything was well made and interesting while also covered in layers of dust. We had to rub the dust off to really get a sense of color for the porcelain items. I spotted an unusual piece in the very back of some rather large lamps. I’ve learned to look up and behind in HK to find the unique pieces that are hidden away. Susan helped me move numerous pottery lamps to reach an incredible golden brown dragon lamp covered in dust. The piece was gorgeous even if the plug did have rust on it. 

The owner found us browsing and welcomed us very warmly. Her English was exceptional with a slight British accent. She offered to replace the plug on my dragon lamp while we continued our search. I had my eye on several items, but once again how would I get them home? We were in the New Territories - not on the island and not in Kowloon. I was definitely going to lug the beautiful dragon lamp especially since it was the only one. But there is a limit to what I am capable of carrying although it is a known fact that great bargains can do amazing things to a woman’s strength. 

With our lamps boxed sturdily we asked the owner if she could direct us to a place for lunch. We were hot, sweaty and more than a little thirsty. Well she did more than direct us she took us! We followed her down a dirt road for several minutes past purple morning glories blooming on a broken rusty fence, an old woman sitting idly on a stool and a tiny shop selling pet supplies. The whole while she was telling us about Kam Tin and how the British had an air force base there for many years. Of course, that explained the accent. 

We finally came to a real road and she waltzed us into what looked like a Chinese diner where not one person spoke English. She made sure we were seated and then disappeared before we could thank her. Luckily the menu was written in both Chinese and English. We pointed to our choices and I grabbed my cup of tea. Susan stopped me before I could chug it down. Oh yes, we can’t drink the water. So what would I drink? I haven’t had a soda in about four years and can’t bear the taste anymore. Well it’s amazing how good a Fanta orange tastes when you’re thirsty. Our lunch was surprisingly good and cost all of $35 HK (about $4.50 US). I suppose diner food is great no matter where you are. 

Rested and refueled we headed back to the train. Even with the load of our packages we couldn’t resist browsing the flea market. It was just like any you would find in the US. Everything from purses to light bulbs to handmade soaps. There was junk and there were treasures it just depended on your perspective. We both ended up buying nightlights to put in the hall when we had overnight guests. Where else could we find nightlights with HK plugs? Definitely treasures!

By this time we were getting hot and tired and were definitely dirty. I could feel the layer of dust on my body and was hoping I didn’t smell as ripe as many others around us. Yes, with the heat comes the smells and this is just April. We hurried to find seats on the MTR and collapsed. Although Kam Tin is only a 30 minute train ride from Hong Kong island it certainly felt like miles away to us. 

Are Fish Pets Since You Can't Pet Them?

I have been wanting to get a pet and decided goldfish would be perfect. It is thought that goldfish create wonderful feng shui in a home. Feng shui is the ancient Chinese belief that the items in your home, and how they are placed, can create positive energy and good fortune. Circular aquariums are said to best and should be placed in the eastern portion of your house. The number of fish is also important such as eight for good luck (odd numbers are definitely bad), orange fish bring wealth (red fish represent fire which definitely does not mix with water) and one lone black fish in an aquarium will absorb all of the negative energy in the home (that poor guy has a huge job).

So today I went to the Goldfish Market in Mong Kok. Yes, there is actually a street in Kowloon that sells fish and a few other assorted pets. Both sides of Tung Choi Street are lined with stalls and shops selling every imaginable color and size of fish. I saw tank after tank of orange, black, white, blue and yellow swirls. Tiny little fish the size of my fingernail swam next to tanks with fish as large as my hand. Hundreds of plastic bags of fish, hung outside of stalls, shimmered in the light. 

And the fish are only a portion of the aquarium. Plants, both real and plastic, can be purchased to enhance the look of the tank along with colored gravel, rocks and aquarium decorations. There was everything from fake coral to bridges to sunken treasure to castles. My favorite decorations were the little pagodas and a tiny little table with two Chinese men drinking tea. 

Scattered throughout the street were stores with pets such as cats, dogs and guinea pigs. Why someone would purchase a cat is beyond me when there are wild cats roaming all over HK island. Dwarf rabbits, big rabbits and rabbits with floppy ears sat looking for homes. Turtles were in abundance. We even saw one over a foot long that was being hand fed lettuce. A cooler of minute frogs jiggled with life next to a box of tiny albino frogs. Both were very high on the creepy scale.

And of course in the middle of this all the street was being torn up and a jack hammer was pounding away. Oh, so Hong Kong! How would I ever make a choice? I walked up one side of the street and down the other hoping something would strike me. I’m not sure that’s entirely possible with fish. When there’s thousands to choose from can a few really scream “Here we are. Pick us.”? 

I finally decided on a bag of fish. I realize that’s sort of like going to the market and buying a bag of mixed salad greens. Very safe and predictable, yet rather boring unless you add some things to it. Then I bought a small plant and nothing else. The pot I had purchased weeks earlier is so beautiful that I believe that is enough. I’m going for less is more in the ways of the fish world. 

I brought my fish home on the MTR then in a taxi. I didn’t think bouncing them up the 402 steps to our apartment would make them too happy. The eight little buddies (with one black) seemed confused by their new home. Every time I check on them they swim to the bottom of the pot. But I have what I wanted - a pet or rather pets. Although I’m not really sure if fish count as pets since you can’t pet them. It’s sort of like the tree falling in the forest thing isn’t it? 

Hiking on Lantau Island

Yesterday we awoke early, filled a small backpack and headed to Pier 6 for the 8:30 am ferry to Lantau Island. We wanted to arrive before the other day trippers and have a chance to do some real hiking. Rusty has been wanting to do some of the more strenuous trails and Lantau is a great place to start.

The ordinary ferry from Central Pier to Lantau Island takes about one hour. I sat back and watched the morning unfold out my window. I’m still amazed at the boat traffic in Victoria Harbour. It’s a superhighway for ships, boats and other seaworthy vessels which seem to be going in every direction and at every speed. How they all navigate around each other is beyond me, but it definitely feels safer than the traffic in rush hour Hong Kong.

Before our voyage ended I went downstairs to use the restroom. I saw quite a few passengers sprawled out across several seats sleeping soundly. Then I also noticed something else stretched out. Two pigs on pallets, gutted from end to end, were laying amongst the retiring passengers. I actually laughed out loud and couldn’t wait to get upstairs to share my latest “Wait til you see this!” with Rusty. Already I knew this would prove to be an interesting day.

We landed at Mui Wo on Lantau Island and took off for parts unknown. I say this literally because we had forgotten to bring a map or at least some written directions of trails on the island. After an hour of exploring the village of Mui Wo we found a trail and decided this was it. Basically this was “it” because it was what we found. It was not necessarily what we were looking for. 

At this point neither of us really cared. We figured we would hike until we had had enough and could still make it back. At the very beginning we passed dozens of bright pink, yellow, orange and red flags lining the road. I’m not sure why they were there, but they looked very festive. Then we passed several benches made out of very thick rock with stone roofs. I swear they looked like they were straight out of the Flintstones. I was waiting for Fred to come strolling along, but instead saw a gentleman lugging a wagon full of groceries and many bottles of wine. Maybe we should follow him.

We passed Man Mo Temple (yes another one), the Silvermine cave and waterfall and just kept heading up. Here we go again I thought. We climbed and climbed and climbed. Thank goodness for the wild orange and pink lantana, white daisies and purple azaleas. The beautiful foliage kept my mind off of our ascent. The temperature was about 75F and in the shade it was perfect, but in the sun we were sweating. 

When we finally reached the top of one hill, we stopped for water and to admire the view. Yes, we really had hiked a long way. The ocean and Mui Wo were far in the distance. This was the hike Rusty had longed for. So onward and upward we went. 

Black butterflies with spots of blue, white or yellow flitted by. At one point we passed a bush humming very loudly with bees. I didn’t stop to see the bush or the bees since I tend to react rather severely to bee stings. Just the noise level alone told us to keep moving.

We finally reached a point that we thought was far enough. We both had the strength to keep going, but we still had to go back down. As we stood there eating our granola bars I saw love appear right before my very eyes. No, I did not have heat stroke! Coming up the hill was an elderly Chinese couple. She was bent over and walking with a cane. He was carrying an umbrella to shade her. I wanted to take a photo, but also didn’t want to spoil the moment. I am content with the memory.

With that we headed back to Mui Wo. After what seemed like such an easy descent we walked along the road and headed to a seaside outdoor restaurant. We passed several women riding their bicycles while holding umbrellas over their heads. How very comical, yet cute.

After a delicious Chinese lunch and a couple of Blue Girl beers we walked back to the pier. (Rusty couldn’t believe I would actually order pork after seeing Porky and his brother on the ferry.) We were just in time to catch the fast ferry to Hong Kong. The rocking of the boat, the hiking, the sun, the food and the beer I was asleep before we hit open water. I woke up 30 minutes later as the ferry slowed to enter Pier 6. Another island, another wonderful day!

Chi Lin Nunnery and Nan Lian Garden

When I hear the word nunnery my Catholic upbringing conjures up images of kind women in black and white habits - nuns. In China, nunnery takes on another meaning. This week my friend Susan and I visited the Chi Lin Nunnery and Nan Lian Garden. It was a day of serenity and beauty.

The Chi Lin Nunnery is located in Kowloon a short walk from the Diamond Hill MTR station. As we walked up the street I was excited and curious to visit this Buddhist nunnery. Chi Lin is styled after the architecture of the Tang Dynasty. The original buildings were built in the 1930s and totally rebuilt in 1998. Each building is made of wood, but without the use of a single nail. The pieces fit together somewhat like a jigsaw puzzle. The Chinese believe that when wood is used to make a building its life continues to fill the structure. I can definitely tell you there is wonderful life in these buildings.

Upon entering the first courtyard we saw four large ponds filled with blooming lotus flowers that symbolize purity. Each pond has dragons head water spouts that are just beautiful. In Chinese mythology dragons control rainfall so this is very appropriate. Bonsai trees and Buddhist philosophies surround the edges of the courtyard. One of my favorite sayings is, “It is better to travel well than to arrive.”

Next we entered the Hall of Celestial Kings that has a large golden statue of the seated Buddha surrounded by other deities. The Main Hall contains the Sakyumani Buddha and disciples. Vases of flowers and bowls of fruit are placed on the altars in front of these. Throughout our visit chanting prayers could be heard. The beauty and peacefulness of the nunnery kept our words to a limit as we took it all in. This is a place you experience and enjoy. 

A bridge over the street connects Nan Lian Garden to the nunnery. The Garden is a Tang style garden with a one way circular route that is meant to bring peace and harmony. Walking across the bridge we saw the Perfection Pavilion and Lotus Pond. The Pavilion is a gold leaf covered tower with two bright orange bridges. The pond is filled with giant koi that are by far and away the largest both of us had ever seen. 

We stopped to have lunch at the vegetarian restaurant, Long Men Lou, located within the garden. The restaurant is built into the side of a hill that has a waterfall flowing over a large glass wall which makes up one side of the building. It’s lovely to watch the water while eating and looking out upon the garden. We ordered two dishes - something with avocados and tomatoes and another with oyster mushrooms and rice. I’m not quite sure what either was, but both were excellent. When examining the menu we did see Yellow Funghi and Bamboo Pith Soup, but after a few chuckles we decided we just weren’t that brave. We were served some type of pumpkin and carrot soup (we think) which was very tasty and light. 

After lunch we continued along the path and came to a building called Xiang Hui Huan (meaning a house embracing a sea of fragrance) that housed a special exhibition of bamboo carvings by Cheung Pak Yue. The carvings were absolutely exquisite and contained bamboo hanging screens, armrests, incense burners, tea canisters and, my favorite, birdcages. Each piece was exceptional in its detail and depth. I feel so blessed that we were able to see this exhibit before it closes at the end of April. 

Back on the path we enjoyed the Buddha pines, bonsais, banyans and numerous other shrubs and flowers. Relaxing Chinese music was piped in from hidden speakers. You truly do feel the tranquility that is meant to be conveyed while in the garden although you only need to look to the east or west to see high rises jutting up around you. Hong Kong is no doubt the city of contrasts. I see it time and time again and it never does cease to amaze me. 

We left the garden feeling calm and relaxed, walked down the street to the MTR and joined the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong. Yes indeed the city of contrasts.

A Little Bit Of Sevens Heaven

It seems that with the large family we have our children have played almost every sport. Someone in our family has participated in baseball, basketball, softball, soccer, swimming, football, field hockey, wrestling, lacrosse and in-line hockey (of which I actually coached one game). They might have even tried a few more, but the one that we never did experience was rugby. My knowledge of the game was non-existent until last weekend when we attended the Hong Kong Sevens.

The Hong Kong Sevens is three days of international rugby playing that attracts spectators and teams from around the world. It is the Super Bowl and World Series blended into one big weekend long party. The fans come ready to cheer and be seen before, during and long after the games. It’s Caucasians gone wild which actually can be humorous and at times embarrassing. 

Rusty and I had tickets for Friday and were lucky enough to see 12 matches and the women's final. I was hoping that I would be able to understand a little of the game and was pleasantly surprised that it is very easy to grasp. The Sevens is unique in that there are only seven players (not fifteen) and each half is only seven minutes long. This makes for very fast paced and high scoring games. 

The terminology was also easy to pick up. The field is called the pitch, to score is a try and the huddle is a scrum. Five points is awarded for a try and a kick through the goal posts is two points. I must admit that I had to suppress a laugh at some of the names of the positions such as scrum half and hooker, but hey American football has tight ends so who am I to say anything. 

The most amazing thing about the tournament is the incredible physical intensity of the game. I don’t mean aggression, but pure strength and stamina. These men are solid masses of muscle. We sat behind one of the benches and I could see the ripples of muscles in their backs through their jerseys. Plus they play without absolutely any pads or protection, yet have fewer injuries then soccer. The Sevens players are athletes of the highest caliber. 

This is obviously an ex-pat extravaganza and the Brits, Aussies, Kiwis and Scots came out in full force to cheer on their teams. We did all cheer loudly for the hometown favorites, but the Hong Kong team does not have the size to compete equally with a team from someplace like South Africa. We were lucky to see the US play Japan on Friday. Everyone was so happy that the Japanese team even made it to the tournament that the cheers for them unfortunately drowned out anything for the US. 

I would be remiss if I did not mention a big part of the tournament is the spectators. The south side of the stadium is reserved only for those over the age of eighteen. People come dressed in costumes and consume mass quantities of beer. They actually sold Carlsberg and Guinness in pitchers! I saw fans dressed like Gumby, Peekachu, Spongebob, vikings, a banana, Mario and Luigi, the list goes on and on. If it sounds like Mardi Gras for rugby fans then you have the general idea. And although you would think people would be rude and obnoxious I personally experienced none of that. I’m not sure of the significance of dressing up, but it does make for some interesting videos on the jumbo-tron.

When all was said and done New Zealand won the tournament. “We were playing for Christchurch,” they said. Amidst all the crisis's and tragedies in the world today it’s great to be able to escape and enjoy some Sevens Heaven. Can’t wait for next year.