Ships Ahoy!

I signed up to work at Fenwick Pier several weeks ago. The AWA helps the Servicemen’s Guides Association staff an information booth that provides assistance to US fleet ships when they are in Hong Kong. The volunteers are there to answer questions the service men and women may have when they arrive in this wonderful, but large exotic city.

When I agreed to work I had no idea what type of vessel would be arriving. There were rumors that the carrier USS Carl Vinson would be here and I actually thought that was the ship we would be assisting. My American friends were abuzz thinking we could be helping the carrier that had dumped Bin Laden’s body. Then the South China Morning Post reported that the USS Hampton was requesting permission to dock along with its tender the USS Frank Cable. This was big news as China had not allowed a nuclear submarine in its port since 2008. They were granted permission and were expected in last Saturday. 

I arrived at Fenwick Pier Fleet Arcade for my 3 - 6 pm shift, presented my Servicemen’s Guides Association card along with my Hong Kong ID, opened my purse for inspection and walked through a metal detector. I was in. I found my way to a large information booth and put on my name tag. I was ready for action. My friend Kate happened to be working the same session. We were both excited about the thought of doing something to help our service men and women.

Kate and I were given a short briefing about what and where things were located in the arcade such as money changing, laundry, post office and internet. We were shown a Rolodex for quick answers to obscure questions and a computer for extremely slow answers to other questions. The rest we pull out of our own little brains. Now the funny part about this is that Kate and I have lived here only a few months. Both of us moved to Hong Kong in January, yet we do have something going for us. We’re adventurers. We find things we’re interested in and then go explore. Plus Kate lives in Kowloon and I live on the island so together we had the area covered geographically. We actually do know quite a bit. 

Unfortunately, although we had arrived ready to work the ship had not, therefore Kate and I would be greeting the initial onslaught of sailors. Eventually a group of servicemen called SLGs arrived. They are the Ship’s Liaison Group. Their purpose is watch over the sailors and make sure they follow the rules. They’re sort of the principals of the ship. I spent a good deal of time asking them questions about their jobs and lives while we waited for the water taxis of sailors.

And eventually they came. Men and quite a few women, many young though some much older, a few who had been to Hong Kong previously, yet most wide eyed and anxious to see the city. They were looking for bars, restaurants and hotels. We gave directions along with maps, city guides and cards with the MTR routes printed on one side and a map to Fenwick Pier plus the address written in Chinese on the other. We handed out free Girl Scout cookies (I have no idea where they came from), candy and dragon pins. We also dispensed our motherly advice: stay with your buddies; be careful in bars in Wan Chai; the meter in the taxi is for all of you and don’t pay more than what’s on it; and most importantly have fun, but use your head.

Some of the sailors really pulled on my heartstrings. Especially the young ones with glasses and peach fuzz who looked like they should be at prom not out to sea, the guys so excited to get to computers so they could Skype with their kids and the husbands meeting their wives for some shore time together. There were several instances when I talked to young men who reminded me of my own boys. I tried to give them the same attention and concern I would give to my sons. 

Kate and I extended our work session until 7 pm since more sailors kept arriving. As we headed out for the evening the two of us were bubbling about how much fun we had. This wasn’t work it was too enjoyable. And the best part? Knowing that we were going back to do more shifts later in the week. 

Big Buddha photos

Big Buddha

For some unknown reason after being in Hong Kong for three months I had still not visited the Big Buddha. The Giant Tian Tan Buddha (affectionately known in HK as Big Buddha) is listed as one of the top ten things to see in Hong Kong by most travel guide books. I almost felt guilty for not making the trek there so I recruited my friend Kate to accompany me on this outing.

We met up at the MTR for our ride to Tung Chung which is at the end of the orange line. From there we walked to the cable cars which would take us straight to Ngong Ping on Lantua island where the Buddha sits. I mean this literally. The Big Buddha is the largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha in the world. He weighs more than 250 tons and is 30m. (98ft) tall.

The day was relatively clear for Hong Kong standards so the view from the cable car provided a nice picture of Lantua island and many others in the distance. The 5.7 km (3 ½ mile) cable car ride takes about 25 minutes which gives you ample opportunity for picture taking. As you approach Ngong Ping the sight of the Big Buddha sitting some 738m (2,421ft) above the island is striking. He is a rather serene, yet majestic figure dominating the island plateau. I was mentally preparing myself for a quiet and peaceful day.

As we disembarked the cable car I was struck by the fact that we had to walk through a gift shop to begin our visit. This isn’t very Buddhist like I thought. Big Buddha key chains, umbrellas and t-shirts were displayed. They even had photos of us that they had taken as we boarded the cable car! (It’s amazing what technology can do in 25 minutes.) This was feeling rather like an amusement park.

We made it through the shop and then it hit us. This wasn’t Disneyland. This was Buddhaland. We had stepped out into a perfectly darling Chinese village full of shops and restaurants. As we strolled along I couldn’t help but notice how everything was exactly that - too perfect. White buildings with green tile roofs and vibrant red and blue trim. Nothing is this clean and organized in Hong Kong. There were even some cute little cartoon like figures (not sure what they were) that you could take your picture with. We were surprised they didn’t charge for it.

I must admit that we did stop at a wonderful shop called the Chopstick Gallery which had hundreds of lovely sets of chopsticks for sale. Since chopsticks have become a regular part of our eating habits we couldn’t help but be taken by the beauty of the sets: some carved, some with silver or mother of pearl tops, some even made from colored pencils. We wandered through admiring them until we each found a set to be used for a special gift. Yes, we had succumbed to Buddhaland.

A wide path lined with warriors each representing one of the signs of the Chinese New Year symbols took us to the foot of the Buddha. My warrior, year of the boar, was very fierce looking. I wasn’t sure what was worse being born in the year of the pig or this scary guy.

The 260 steps leading up to the Buddha were lined with people making their way slowly to the top. Kate and I worked our way up thankful that we had gone on a weekday. I can’t even imagine what Sunday is like. The view of the countryside from the base of the Buddha is wonderful and the other bronze deities displayed are truly beautiful.

After our descent we headed back through Buddhaland and decided that maybe we had seen enough. We didn’t even stop for lunch. Somehow I thought the menu would include tofu Buddha burgers, enlightenment entrees and deity desserts. This just didn’t feel right.

We took the more expensive crystal cable car back to Tung Chung. The crystal cable car is nothing more than one with a glass bottom. Does seeing through the floor of the cable car make it more appealing and/or exciting? Not really. It’s ironic that Hong Kong Disneyland is also on Lantua island. In my mind “the happiest place on earth” never should include a big Buddha.

Guilin Part 2 photos

Guilin Part 2

I awoke Saturday morning to a misty fog both out of doors and in my head. The coffee machine in the restaurant of our resort had broken and I was without caffeine. After a long day yesterday this was not the way to start off. We boarded our bus in the drizzle and loaded our suitcases and overnight bags. We were required to bring other bags for our stay that evening as we would be heading to Longsheng Rice Terraces 1,000 meters above sea level. Our bus would drop us off at the bottom and we would hike up to the lodge.

As we drove through the mountains the rain subsided although it never did clear. This area gets lots of rain - 192 cm per month! I was thankful it would be dry even if very humid. We stopped to transfer from our tour bus to a local bus and were quickly greeted by minority women known as Yao. Longsheng is made up of four ethnic minorities: Zhuang, Miao, Dong and Yao. Within those minorities are other groups such as the red skirt, black skirt, long skirt and short skirt. It was difficult to tell who was what. When seeing a woman with a short red skirt was she red skirt or short skirt? Only our guide Peter could figure it out.

The Yao women were very persistent and being typical tourists we could not resist purchasing scarves and embroidered items. Yao women cut there hair only once in their lifetime at the age of sixteen. That means a young girl has become a woman and it is time to marry. After marriage the Yao women tie their hair in a bun in the center of their head close to the top of their forehead. This makes it clear to all that the woman is spoken for. Their hair can only be taken down for their husbands to see.

On the local bus we wove our way through the mountainside twisting and turning our way to the next stop. Once there I grabbed my backpack and stepped off the bus to Zhuang people with large baskets tied to their backs. They wanted to carry our bags up to the lodge. I was conflicted. I was more than happy to pay them. Their sources of income are few. Yet the basket carriers were old! I mean elderly. How could I expect someone 20 years my senior to carry a basket full of overnight bags and backpacks? Then I realized this was my issue not theirs. They were strong and happy to make the money. I gave them my backpack and proceeded up the muddy trail. 

Thank goodness there were steps, although over 700 of them, but it made it easier to walk through the village up to the top. The village is built on the slopes of the rice terraces. The path up is narrow and sometimes steep. The homes and shops often seem to hang by a thread to the sides of the mountain. Sedan chairs carried by four men carted people to the top, women sat weaving shoes, boys led donkeys laden with supplies and children played with toys next to their mothers selling goods. 

We climbed slowly to the lodge finding it hard not to stop too frequently for photos and to look at the wares being sold along the way. Most of the merchants were Zhuang and although they did not speak English they were very friendly. The tourists of course bring revenue that is badly needed so they were happy to see us trudging along. 

Our lodge was amazing with views overlooking the rice terraces. Each room had a different theme. Meike and I were in the Batik room with beautiful framed batiks and blue ginger pots. The walls and ceiling were made out of woven grasses and bamboo. Each guest was given slippers to wear while indoors. We hurried through lunch to get back outside.

As we walked to the top of the mountain we were in awe. Being in the center of Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces was breathtaking. The terraces coil around the mountainsides and cover an area of 66 square kilometers (16,000 acres). The layers of green spread out around us. This was truly one of the most spectacular things I had ever laid eyes on.

Everyone split off into small groups to explore. I can’t imagine how many photographs were actually taken that day. It seemed every time you saw something amazing you happened upon something else. 

During our hike back down through the village we encountered several men butchering a hog. Of course this happens, but it took place right next to the main trail with little children playing along side them. We literally had to step over a puddle of blood to get by. And of course one of the items for dinner that night was pork. I suppose it was very fresh!

Back up at the lodge we randomly gathered for cocktails on the balcony overlooking the terraces. As night quickly fell I realized these people were no longer strangers they were friends. I was certainly blessed to be on this journey with them.

The next morning I learned it had stormed overnight although I must confess I didn’t hear a thing. I was lucky enough to have several cups of real coffee before heading down the mountain. Although we left early the Zhuang came to retrieve our bags and haul them down for us. The shops were shut tight. Chickens and rats scurried about. A dense fog hung around us. Life on Dragon’s Backbone had not yet begun. Maybe this was the way to leave while everything was quiet. We could slip away before we had a chance to want to stay.

The several hour ride back to Guilin went quickly even with a bus change. In Guilin we stopped at Reed Flute Cave. The cave received its name from the reeds growing outside of it which were used to make flutes. I must admit that after visiting Carlsbad Caverns in New Mexico no cave has ever come close to its grandeur in my estimation. In typical Chinese fashion colored lights illuminated the stalactites and stalagmites. The Chinese love their colored lights! This was a very anticlimactic way to end the trip. I suppose this actually made it easier to leave.

We had more Chinese food in Guilin before we headed to the airport. I thoroughly enjoy Chinese food, but the huge amount of sodium I had consumed the past few days was making me blow up like a puffer fish. My feet and ankles were swollen and others commented about their hands and even legs. It was time to get back to Hong Kong and a salad.

We luckily landed in Hong Kong Sunday evening right after a storm had blown through. Having a Hong Kong identity card made coming into the country nothing more than slipping my card into a machine and pressing my thumb on a scanner for identification. No passport control, no long lines. We could do that in the states, but of course the ACLU would fuss. Why not make it voluntary I thought? Well it doesn’t matter. I was back to my Hong Kong life and home. 

Guilin Part 1 photos

Guilin Part 1

Although in Kong Kong only a few months my wanderlust took me on a trip to southern China. I had signed up for an AWA Asian tour to  Guilin, Yangshuo and Longsheng. My knowledge of that part of China was scant with only the terms beautiful and gorgeous in my vocabulary of the area. 

Last Thursday I experienced the much praised Airport Express for the first time. It begins in Central where you can check your luggage, get your boarding pass and board a train that takes you directly to the airport. The cost is right, $100HK (about $12US), and the convenience is remarkable. This is definitely the way to go.

I was with several other ladies who I had met only briefly at our pre-departure meeting a few weeks prior. And I had not even met my roommate yet! How strange to travel with strangers, but my thirst for seeing China far outweighed my nervousness about being with others I did not know for 4 days. We were running rather late and did the walk/run to the gate. There I met Meike my Belgian roommate who was equally beautiful and sweet. I immediately began to relax.

Our hour flight took us straight to Guilin. As we approached the landing strip I was amazed how dark it was. Even the runway lights seemed dim. What a surprise I would have after we landed! 

Passport control was easy and quick and we were promptly met by our guide Peter. The 24 of us walked out of the terminal into a riot of color. Fake palm trees, complete with coconuts, lined the front of the car-park each glowing a different color. We chuckled amongst ourselves as no one quite expected this greeting. The forty minute drive to our hotel proved equally absurd. The buildings were outlined with colored LED lights, some pulsing or strobing, which gave the appearance of a mini-Las Vegas. This was not the quaint Chinese town that I had anticipated.

What I did not know is that Guilin is a pre-fecture level city (below a province and above a county) in the province of Guangxi. The city itself has over 500,000 people. The total geographic area of Guilin covers over 28,000 sq. kilometers or 10,000 miles. 

After we checked into our rooms a few of the more adventurous ladies took off for the Night Market. I’m always amazed how markets are abuzz with activity and commerce late into the night in China. We strolled along the streets and stalls getting acquainted with each other and the city of Guilin. 

Friday morning we awoke early for a quick breakfast and then into the bus for a incredibly full day that we were all greatly anticipating. Our first stop was a boat ride on the very famous Li River. Even if you have never heard of it you have no doubt seen paintings of the scenery. The most famous view is on the 20 Yuan bill. 

We boarded our boat and were immediately offered tea as we prepared for our 3 hour journey down the river. It wasn’t long before most of us were on the upper deck taking photographs and marveling at the karst mountains. Karst mountains are jagged peaks sticking out of the earth that seem rather other-worldly particularly when covered in mist and fog as they were that day. For Star Wars fans you might remember them from Episode III: Revenge of the Sith. The Li River was also called one of the 10 Water Wonders of the World by National Geographic. What a reputation!

Yes, it did live up to my expectations. I was expecting to be “wowed” and I was. The natural landscape alone is exquisite, but watching life on the river was fascinating: women washing clothes, men fishing from bamboo rafts, water buffalo grazing and even a young couple getting married the bride stunning her long white dress. I stood for hours, sometimes in the mist, absorbing the feel and recording the sights in my camera and my mind. 

Eventually we were called below for a Chinese lunch before disembarking onto a small dinghy with tiny wooden chairs (the kind we had in kindergarten) for a ride to the shore of Xingping. A short walk through town gave us time to take photos of the villagers with their stores selling batiks, embroidered shoes and wooden carvings. We encountered a funeral taking place that was both magical and solemn. 

At the end of our walk were the bikes that would take us on the next part of our journey. As I had strongly suspected the bright green bikes with baskets in the back for our day-packs were “no speeds”. I wasn’t worried since we were only cycling 20 kilometers. We headed out of town and I quickly hurried to the front of the group. I wanted to be able to ask Peter about the sights we were passing. The orchards of persimmons and oranges, the rice paddies with water buffalo and the tombs still with decorations after the recent Ching Ming Festival (Grave Sweeping Festival) made for many questions. The most incredible part of the ride was smelling the orange blossoms. The sweet fragrance enveloped us as we rode down the dusty road with buses of locals buzzing past sometimes precariously close. We rode past villagers leading oxen and carrying fruits and vegetables. We rode through pot holes that were so big you couldn’t get around them. I longed for my bike shorts sitting in my dresser drawer in Webster Groves. 

We arrived in Fuli and walked around the town known for its fan making. The various stages of which were evident as the process was seen drying right outside the doors of the many small shops and homes. I couldn’t stop taking photos of the red, green, yellow and white fan layers. I encountered a woman finishing a fan and was able to photograph her with her permission. She seemed rather pleased with the attention and I loved watching her.

We finally boarded our bus to our next night’s lodging in Yangshou. I was pleasantly surprised as we arrived at a beautiful resort nestled along the Lijiang River. After a quick shower to wash away the layer of sweat and dust we headed into town for dinner and to see the cultural show “Impression Liu Sanjie”. The show takes place outdoors, literally on the river, with the Snow Lion Hill as the backdrop. Over 500 singers and dancers in ethnic costumes perform this show about love. Many of the performers are gliding across the water on rafts while carrying torches. Of course we had no idea what was being sung, but the music and scenery was stunningly beautiful. The show was choreographed by Zhang Yimo the same artist who choreographed the opening ceremony for the Beijing Olympics. This was equally impressive especially since we were sitting on rattan chairs with 3,000 other people in the mist (sometimes heavy) watching color and light dance across the river and karst mountains. 

We shed the plastic rain ponchos that were handed out as we entered the show and boarded our bus back to the lodge for a much needed night’s sleep. I was not sure if I could sleep after the overload of sights, sounds and smells of the day, but I do believe I had read only one page of my book before I was sound asleep.