Don't Inhale

The air’s so think you can see it. It doesn’t have that brown color that you get in Beijing. It’s rather gray looking. It’s a cross between heat, humidity and pollution. I know the official word in the states is smog, but somehow that doesn’t seem to do it for me. Let’s face it we’re talking pollution at its finest or should I say worst. I know it’s bad when I look across the harbour and can’t see a thing past the first row or two of buildings.

When I returned to Hong Kong the first few days were marvelous. Clear blue skies with little white cotton puffs of clouds. On the south side of the island the South China Sea was an inviting turquoise blue dotted with small triangles of yellow and orange wind surfers. The scene was so tranquil I almost forgot about the sharks that inhabit those waters and I actually had the urge to take wind surfing lessons. A taxi ride past the Tai Tam Reservoir with the magnificent Victorian era stonework bridge looming over the teal green water gave me the urge to dive in. Now this is the sub-tropical climate I was longing for.

But short lived it was. Last Thursday the grey settled in. I’m not talking grey skies as in rain. I mean grey air as in I can see what I’m breathing! I was in Kowloon last week and mistakenly thought I could make it across the street before the light changed. My judgement was way off and I got caught in the middle of six lanes of traffic. As I was standing there praying some vehicle wouldn’t swerve ever so slightly I realized I was feeling light headed. I could actually feel the air I was breathing in my nostrils. The particulate matter from the buses was literally going up my nose. That combined with the heat from the urban jungle was making me woozy.

So that evening it started. The itchy eyes that actually hurt. The sinus pain that made my face ache. The dull headache that wouldn’t go away. Thank goodness I brought two bottles of Zrytec back from the states. I swear they should film allergy medication commercials here. The pollution along with the mold and tree pollens makes for a magnificent witches brew of allergy issues.

Yet we refuse to give in to the climate. Sunday Rusty and I started out early (8:45 am) for a hike. We headed up Wan Chai Gap Road to the beginning of Stage 3 of the Hong Kong trail. Wan Chai Gap Road is not a road, but actually a paved trail that is exceptionally steep. You honestly have to lean back as you’re walking down which can also be more difficult than going up particularly if you have bad knees. The first time I went up I had to stop several times. This time I only needed one stop, but then it started. The cough. That dry hack that comes from allergies which can only mean one thing...allergic asthma. I thought those days were over. I didn’t even bring an inhaler to Hong Kong.

But up and over the mountain we went along Aberdeen Reservoir Road to Black’s Link then back to Stubb’s Road. I only had one other coughing spell and my legs were definitely feeling strong. The only problem was the air. When we reached some spectacular spots with views of the south side I could hardly even make out Lantua or Lamma Islands. Everything looked milky and fuzzy. We were hiking in a haze that hung over the entire island.

I’m praying a strong wind will come blow this away although the newspaper says it should last several more days. The pollution level has been registering at Very High and the young, elderly and those with health problems are told to stay indoors. Thank goodness I don’t fall into any of those categories, yet today I will use the treadmill downstairs in the gym instead of running on our lovely Bowen Road. I’ll give my lungs a break.

Ships Ahoy!

I signed up to work at Fenwick Pier several weeks ago. The AWA helps the Servicemen’s Guides Association staff an information booth that provides assistance to US fleet ships when they are in Hong Kong. The volunteers are there to answer questions the service men and women may have when they arrive in this wonderful, but large exotic city.

When I agreed to work I had no idea what type of vessel would be arriving. There were rumors that the carrier USS Carl Vinson would be here and I actually thought that was the ship we would be assisting. My American friends were abuzz thinking we could be helping the carrier that had dumped Bin Laden’s body. Then the South China Morning Post reported that the USS Hampton was requesting permission to dock along with its tender the USS Frank Cable. This was big news as China had not allowed a nuclear submarine in its port since 2008. They were granted permission and were expected in last Saturday. 

I arrived at Fenwick Pier Fleet Arcade for my 3 - 6 pm shift, presented my Servicemen’s Guides Association card along with my Hong Kong ID, opened my purse for inspection and walked through a metal detector. I was in. I found my way to a large information booth and put on my name tag. I was ready for action. My friend Kate happened to be working the same session. We were both excited about the thought of doing something to help our service men and women.

Kate and I were given a short briefing about what and where things were located in the arcade such as money changing, laundry, post office and internet. We were shown a Rolodex for quick answers to obscure questions and a computer for extremely slow answers to other questions. The rest we pull out of our own little brains. Now the funny part about this is that Kate and I have lived here only a few months. Both of us moved to Hong Kong in January, yet we do have something going for us. We’re adventurers. We find things we’re interested in and then go explore. Plus Kate lives in Kowloon and I live on the island so together we had the area covered geographically. We actually do know quite a bit. 

Unfortunately, although we had arrived ready to work the ship had not, therefore Kate and I would be greeting the initial onslaught of sailors. Eventually a group of servicemen called SLGs arrived. They are the Ship’s Liaison Group. Their purpose is watch over the sailors and make sure they follow the rules. They’re sort of the principals of the ship. I spent a good deal of time asking them questions about their jobs and lives while we waited for the water taxis of sailors.

And eventually they came. Men and quite a few women, many young though some much older, a few who had been to Hong Kong previously, yet most wide eyed and anxious to see the city. They were looking for bars, restaurants and hotels. We gave directions along with maps, city guides and cards with the MTR routes printed on one side and a map to Fenwick Pier plus the address written in Chinese on the other. We handed out free Girl Scout cookies (I have no idea where they came from), candy and dragon pins. We also dispensed our motherly advice: stay with your buddies; be careful in bars in Wan Chai; the meter in the taxi is for all of you and don’t pay more than what’s on it; and most importantly have fun, but use your head.

Some of the sailors really pulled on my heartstrings. Especially the young ones with glasses and peach fuzz who looked like they should be at prom not out to sea, the guys so excited to get to computers so they could Skype with their kids and the husbands meeting their wives for some shore time together. There were several instances when I talked to young men who reminded me of my own boys. I tried to give them the same attention and concern I would give to my sons. 

Kate and I extended our work session until 7 pm since more sailors kept arriving. As we headed out for the evening the two of us were bubbling about how much fun we had. This wasn’t work it was too enjoyable. And the best part? Knowing that we were going back to do more shifts later in the week. 

Big Buddha photos

Big Buddha

For some unknown reason after being in Hong Kong for three months I had still not visited the Big Buddha. The Giant Tian Tan Buddha (affectionately known in HK as Big Buddha) is listed as one of the top ten things to see in Hong Kong by most travel guide books. I almost felt guilty for not making the trek there so I recruited my friend Kate to accompany me on this outing.

We met up at the MTR for our ride to Tung Chung which is at the end of the orange line. From there we walked to the cable cars which would take us straight to Ngong Ping on Lantua island where the Buddha sits. I mean this literally. The Big Buddha is the largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha in the world. He weighs more than 250 tons and is 30m. (98ft) tall.

The day was relatively clear for Hong Kong standards so the view from the cable car provided a nice picture of Lantua island and many others in the distance. The 5.7 km (3 ½ mile) cable car ride takes about 25 minutes which gives you ample opportunity for picture taking. As you approach Ngong Ping the sight of the Big Buddha sitting some 738m (2,421ft) above the island is striking. He is a rather serene, yet majestic figure dominating the island plateau. I was mentally preparing myself for a quiet and peaceful day.

As we disembarked the cable car I was struck by the fact that we had to walk through a gift shop to begin our visit. This isn’t very Buddhist like I thought. Big Buddha key chains, umbrellas and t-shirts were displayed. They even had photos of us that they had taken as we boarded the cable car! (It’s amazing what technology can do in 25 minutes.) This was feeling rather like an amusement park.

We made it through the shop and then it hit us. This wasn’t Disneyland. This was Buddhaland. We had stepped out into a perfectly darling Chinese village full of shops and restaurants. As we strolled along I couldn’t help but notice how everything was exactly that - too perfect. White buildings with green tile roofs and vibrant red and blue trim. Nothing is this clean and organized in Hong Kong. There were even some cute little cartoon like figures (not sure what they were) that you could take your picture with. We were surprised they didn’t charge for it.

I must admit that we did stop at a wonderful shop called the Chopstick Gallery which had hundreds of lovely sets of chopsticks for sale. Since chopsticks have become a regular part of our eating habits we couldn’t help but be taken by the beauty of the sets: some carved, some with silver or mother of pearl tops, some even made from colored pencils. We wandered through admiring them until we each found a set to be used for a special gift. Yes, we had succumbed to Buddhaland.

A wide path lined with warriors each representing one of the signs of the Chinese New Year symbols took us to the foot of the Buddha. My warrior, year of the boar, was very fierce looking. I wasn’t sure what was worse being born in the year of the pig or this scary guy.

The 260 steps leading up to the Buddha were lined with people making their way slowly to the top. Kate and I worked our way up thankful that we had gone on a weekday. I can’t even imagine what Sunday is like. The view of the countryside from the base of the Buddha is wonderful and the other bronze deities displayed are truly beautiful.

After our descent we headed back through Buddhaland and decided that maybe we had seen enough. We didn’t even stop for lunch. Somehow I thought the menu would include tofu Buddha burgers, enlightenment entrees and deity desserts. This just didn’t feel right.

We took the more expensive crystal cable car back to Tung Chung. The crystal cable car is nothing more than one with a glass bottom. Does seeing through the floor of the cable car make it more appealing and/or exciting? Not really. It’s ironic that Hong Kong Disneyland is also on Lantua island. In my mind “the happiest place on earth” never should include a big Buddha.

Guilin Part 2 photos

Guilin Part 2

I awoke Saturday morning to a misty fog both out of doors and in my head. The coffee machine in the restaurant of our resort had broken and I was without caffeine. After a long day yesterday this was not the way to start off. We boarded our bus in the drizzle and loaded our suitcases and overnight bags. We were required to bring other bags for our stay that evening as we would be heading to Longsheng Rice Terraces 1,000 meters above sea level. Our bus would drop us off at the bottom and we would hike up to the lodge.

As we drove through the mountains the rain subsided although it never did clear. This area gets lots of rain - 192 cm per month! I was thankful it would be dry even if very humid. We stopped to transfer from our tour bus to a local bus and were quickly greeted by minority women known as Yao. Longsheng is made up of four ethnic minorities: Zhuang, Miao, Dong and Yao. Within those minorities are other groups such as the red skirt, black skirt, long skirt and short skirt. It was difficult to tell who was what. When seeing a woman with a short red skirt was she red skirt or short skirt? Only our guide Peter could figure it out.

The Yao women were very persistent and being typical tourists we could not resist purchasing scarves and embroidered items. Yao women cut there hair only once in their lifetime at the age of sixteen. That means a young girl has become a woman and it is time to marry. After marriage the Yao women tie their hair in a bun in the center of their head close to the top of their forehead. This makes it clear to all that the woman is spoken for. Their hair can only be taken down for their husbands to see.

On the local bus we wove our way through the mountainside twisting and turning our way to the next stop. Once there I grabbed my backpack and stepped off the bus to Zhuang people with large baskets tied to their backs. They wanted to carry our bags up to the lodge. I was conflicted. I was more than happy to pay them. Their sources of income are few. Yet the basket carriers were old! I mean elderly. How could I expect someone 20 years my senior to carry a basket full of overnight bags and backpacks? Then I realized this was my issue not theirs. They were strong and happy to make the money. I gave them my backpack and proceeded up the muddy trail. 

Thank goodness there were steps, although over 700 of them, but it made it easier to walk through the village up to the top. The village is built on the slopes of the rice terraces. The path up is narrow and sometimes steep. The homes and shops often seem to hang by a thread to the sides of the mountain. Sedan chairs carried by four men carted people to the top, women sat weaving shoes, boys led donkeys laden with supplies and children played with toys next to their mothers selling goods. 

We climbed slowly to the lodge finding it hard not to stop too frequently for photos and to look at the wares being sold along the way. Most of the merchants were Zhuang and although they did not speak English they were very friendly. The tourists of course bring revenue that is badly needed so they were happy to see us trudging along. 

Our lodge was amazing with views overlooking the rice terraces. Each room had a different theme. Meike and I were in the Batik room with beautiful framed batiks and blue ginger pots. The walls and ceiling were made out of woven grasses and bamboo. Each guest was given slippers to wear while indoors. We hurried through lunch to get back outside.

As we walked to the top of the mountain we were in awe. Being in the center of Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces was breathtaking. The terraces coil around the mountainsides and cover an area of 66 square kilometers (16,000 acres). The layers of green spread out around us. This was truly one of the most spectacular things I had ever laid eyes on.

Everyone split off into small groups to explore. I can’t imagine how many photographs were actually taken that day. It seemed every time you saw something amazing you happened upon something else. 

During our hike back down through the village we encountered several men butchering a hog. Of course this happens, but it took place right next to the main trail with little children playing along side them. We literally had to step over a puddle of blood to get by. And of course one of the items for dinner that night was pork. I suppose it was very fresh!

Back up at the lodge we randomly gathered for cocktails on the balcony overlooking the terraces. As night quickly fell I realized these people were no longer strangers they were friends. I was certainly blessed to be on this journey with them.

The next morning I learned it had stormed overnight although I must confess I didn’t hear a thing. I was lucky enough to have several cups of real coffee before heading down the mountain. Although we left early the Zhuang came to retrieve our bags and haul them down for us. The shops were shut tight. Chickens and rats scurried about. A dense fog hung around us. Life on Dragon’s Backbone had not yet begun. Maybe this was the way to leave while everything was quiet. We could slip away before we had a chance to want to stay.

The several hour ride back to Guilin went quickly even with a bus change. In Guilin we stopped at Reed Flute Cave. The cave received its name from the reeds growing outside of it which were used to make flutes. I must admit that after visiting Carlsbad Caverns in New Mexico no cave has ever come close to its grandeur in my estimation. In typical Chinese fashion colored lights illuminated the stalactites and stalagmites. The Chinese love their colored lights! This was a very anticlimactic way to end the trip. I suppose this actually made it easier to leave.

We had more Chinese food in Guilin before we headed to the airport. I thoroughly enjoy Chinese food, but the huge amount of sodium I had consumed the past few days was making me blow up like a puffer fish. My feet and ankles were swollen and others commented about their hands and even legs. It was time to get back to Hong Kong and a salad.

We luckily landed in Hong Kong Sunday evening right after a storm had blown through. Having a Hong Kong identity card made coming into the country nothing more than slipping my card into a machine and pressing my thumb on a scanner for identification. No passport control, no long lines. We could do that in the states, but of course the ACLU would fuss. Why not make it voluntary I thought? Well it doesn’t matter. I was back to my Hong Kong life and home. 

Guilin Part 1 photos